Which "Actives" Should I Look for (Or Add!) to my Facial Moisturizer?

I am a 41 year old Physical Therapist and have recently become interested in formulating and/or boosting my favorite moisturizer to maximize its efficacy in keeping my skin youthful. There are many sites in which "actives" such as DMAE, kinetin, Argiriline, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate,and CoQ10 to name a few can be purchased individually for very little money. So for the budding chemist in me what actives are your top recommendations, and if appropriate what % would you recommend?

Doctor Answers 1

What acitve ingredients to keep skin youthful?

There are a plethora of acitves, however very few have been "proven" in peer reviewed scientific study to actually improve or prevent aging skin.  Two actives that have had extensive research and are widely accepted as safe and effective are retinol and nicacin (or niacinamide).  These vitamin derived actives have been shown to have a positive long term effect in both lab and clinical studies.  Retinol increases collagen and elastic tissue, and niacin decrease water loss and reduces unwanted pigment. 

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