CHEMICAL PEEL

Pros

• Ranging from superficial to deep, chemical peels can be customized to suit your skin type, specific concerns, allowable downtime, and budget. 
• Chemical peels are nonsurgical treatments performed on an outpatient basis.
• Most peels aren't painful. During treatment, they may cause some mild to moderate discomfort—stinging and burning are common. Pain medication isn't usually required, but—depending on the peel depth and your pain threshold—you might need a sedative and/or painkiller. 
• Peels are generally less costly than laser resurfacing procedures that target the same conditions. 
• If you want to boost skin’s radiance fast, a light peel can create an immediate glow, with little to no downtime. A series of light peels can make a noticeable difference over time.  

Cons

• Some acids are less predictable than others and can cause reactions in sensitive skin.   
• People with dark skin tones run the risk of hyperpigmentation with deeper peels. 
• There’s a risk of severe burns or scars if an inappropriate peel is applied to your skin or left on for too long.
• You may need a series of light or medium peels to see your desired results.

• Average Cost:
• $429

• Range:
• $150 - $4,000

Your cost will depend on the type of peel you have, your provider’s level of experience, their practice location, and a few other key factors. 

Deep phenol-Croton oil peels, the most expensive type, can cost upwards of several thousand dollars.

See our complete guide to chemical peel costs

The chemical peel photos in our gallery have been shared by the provider who performed the procedure, with the patient's consent.

There are many different types of chemical peels designed to address a wide range of issues, so some kind of peel can benefit most people. An experienced provider can recommend an acid solution with the strength and depth best suited to your concerns and skin type. 

However, chemical peel selection can be limited for some skin types. “People with sensitive skin or dark complexions should generally avoid deeper, more intense peels, since they could suffer burns, scars, or hyperpigmentation. I have had patients with deep skin tones get great results with lighter peels, however,” says New York City dermatologist Dr. Michele Green.

A 2018 study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology examined the safety of superficial chemical peels for Fitzpatrick skin types III–IV and found that fewer than 4% of treatments resulted in complications.

Related: 3 Pro-Strength Chemical Peels for Every Hyperpigmentation Problem

Generally speaking, chemical peels exfoliate the skin by dissolving the bonds between old skin cells, allowing them to shed, while also triggering a healing response that smooths and thickens skin over time.

The skin typically sheds dull dead skin cells every 28 days, but this process slows down with age and prolonged sun exposure. Chemical peels accelerate this natural cell turnover and stimulate the growth of new collagen. 

Chemical peels typically fall into three main categories: superficial, medium, and deep.

Superficial peels 

Ideal for first-timers and people with delicate skin, mild peels exfoliate the skin's outer layer. Superficial "lunchtime" peels typically use low-strength alpha hydroxy acids, like lactic and glycolic acid, to clear pores, smooth the skin, and give it a glow. 

Superficial peels with pore-penetrating salicylic acid can treat active acne. 

These peels are safe enough to be performed by aestheticians.

Doctors often suggest booking a series of light peels or ongoing monthly appointments for best results. 

Medium peels

Affecting both the epidermis (surface layer of skin) and the upper layers of the underlying dermis, medium peels treat skin conditions like pigment irregularities, acne scars, and moderate sun damage, including fine wrinkles. 

TCA, Jessner’s solution, and higher percentages of glycolic acid are frequently used for medium-depth peeling in derm and plastic surgeon offices. 

Bear in mind, as a peel’s power increases, so too do its side effects. You can expect at least a week of flaking and redness after a medium-depth peel.

Deep peels

Sometimes administered under IV sedation (with local anesthesia) by a dermatologist or plastic surgeon, phenol-Croton oil based formulas can penetrate down to the deeper dermal layers to address severe sun damage, deep wrinkles, brown spots, and scarring (including acne scars) while tightening the skin. 

According to Dr. Sterling, often only one or two areas of the face are treated with a phenol-Croton oil formula, typically around the eyes or mouth, where wrinkles are deepest. The rest of the face and neck are then commonly treated with a lighter TCA solution. 

Phenol can affect heart functioning, so patients’ vitals must be monitored during the procedure if the entire face is treated. The kidneys and liver can also be negatively affected by phenol. To minimize exposure, toxicity, and overall risk, the phenol solution is applied to only one section of the face at a time, in a carefully timed fashion. A lot of doctors don’t offer phenol peels, because of the systemic risks and need for monitoring.

Unsurprisingly, deep peels come with more extensive downtime—a month or more of swelling, peeling, crusting, and oozing, followed by several additional weeks of persistent pinkness. 

Skin sensitivity will be heightened post-peel, so strict sun avoidance and copious sunscreen (once tolerable) are a must. However, the results of a deep chemical peel can be transformative. 

Related: Which Type of Chemical Peel Is Right for You?

RealSelf Tip: Some providers will ask you to avoid retinoids like Retin-A for roughly two days prior to certain peels, while others may have you pretreat skin with a retinoid (to boost a peel’s penetration and efficacy) or hydroquinone to control hyperpigmentation during and after a peel. Consult your doctor about which products to eliminate or add to your skin care routine prior to your treatment.

Your treatment experience will depend on the strength of your peel. 

For mild to medium peels, anesthesia isn’t usually needed. You may notice some stinging or burning until the peel is neutralized, though some providers minimize discomfort by chilling the skin during treatment with either a small fan or the Zimmer skin cooling system, depending on the strength of the peel.

Deep peels require some form of anesthesia and pain medication. For a phenol peel, expect to be sedated.

After your face has been cleansed, degreased, and numbed (via injection, if needed), the peel solution is applied and left on for anywhere from a few minutes to up to an hour, depending on the type and potency of the peel and sensitivity of your skin. You may feel mild to moderate itching, stinging, and burning while the solution is on your skin. 

Once the peel is complete, your doctor will apply a cold gauze compress to the skin to neutralize the acid. Your face is then cleansed thoroughly with cold water compresses, and moisturizer and sunscreen are applied to soothe and protect your skin.

Light to medium peels require a day to one week of recovery time, when your skin may look sunburned and feel dry, flaky, and sensitive. The amount of visible skin peeling post-treatment isn’t always indicative of the success of the peel. 

“Many people imagine scary scenarios from TV when it comes to healing,” says Dr. Green. But especially with light peels, “you don't have to see full-blown peeling to have good results.”

Downtime for deeper peels can last for up to a month, with additional redness and flaking for up to three months. Recovery from phenol peels will also require prescription pain medication and oral antibiotics for the first week or two. 

Don’t pick at any peeling or flaking skin, and follow your provider’s aftercare instructions to reduce the risk of infection or scarring.

Especially with moderate to deep chemical peels, post-op care is critical to the outcome, according to doctors on RealSelf. 

Treated skin will be very sensitive throughout the healing process. Follow these tips (and your provider’s aftercare instructions) to keep it healthy, hydrated, and protected. 

• Following certain types of medium peels, some doctors recommend applying dilute vinegar soaks to soothe shedding skin.
• A simple, fragrance-free moisturizer or bland ointment, like Vaseline, can help with healing and disguising flaking skin. If your skin gets too dry and cracks, it can scar. Ask your provider what brand they recommend.
• Resist picking off peeling skin; let it shed naturally. Picking at flaking skin interrupts your skin's natural healing process, which can increase your risk of infection, as well as lead to prolonged redness, skin color changes, and scarring. 
• Wear a broad-spectrum, physical sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, with an SPF of at least 50 to protect your fresh skin cells from damaging sun exposure; stay out of direct sunlight.  
• Hold off on exercising throughout your downtime. “As a general rule, I tell my patients they may resume regular activity once peeling has stopped. Any form of exercise and excessive sweating can irritate red, peeling skin and prolong the healing process,” warns Toronto plastic surgeon Dr. Jerome Edelstein.
• Wait until your skin is done peeling to apply any makeup, which can introduce bacteria and irritate the skin. 
• If you think you have a chemical burn, reach out to your provider immediately. They may recommend that you gently apply Aquaphor or Vaseline multiple times a day for 3–4 days before switching to a simple moisturizer. Cool compresses can also help ease discomfort.

You should begin to see improvements in your skin tone and texture as post-peel symptoms subside. 

Your complexion will continue to improve over time as new collagen forms, with final results visible within about three months.

Related: The Treatments and Ingredients Actually Proven to Reduce Wrinkles

Mild peels can be repeated every few weeks until you get the results you’re after. 

Medium peels require more downtime in between, but follow-up peels can improve and prolong results. Some doctors on RealSelf also recommend an annual maintenance peel. 

Deep peel results will last for many years.

Your results could last anywhere from several months to many years. Their longevity will depend on the strength of your peel and your skincare habits, including how diligently you avoid sun exposure or use a high-SPF, broad-spectrum sunscreen.

Beyond run-of-the-mill dryness and flaking, there’s the risk of developing hyperpigmentation—especially for people with a dark skin tone (skin types V or VI on the Fitzpatrick scale) or sensitive skin. Give your provider a heads-up if you’re prone to trauma-induced post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (red marks or scars from acne or injury). 

If your skin is prone to acne, beware that chemical peels can trigger new breakouts. “Breakouts after a chemical peel are common. Sometimes, even if your skin appears healthy on the surface, you can have underlying bacteria and pigmentation that has not come up yet,” says Dr. Pablo Prichard, a plastic surgeon in Scottsdale, Arizona. “It's normal to have a purging phase when you first start treating the skin.” 

If you have an acne flare or breakouts, let your treating physician know. Oral or topical antibiotics may be needed to prevent potential post-inflammatory pigmentation from the flare.

Similarly, if you’re prone to cold sores, a chemical peel can trigger an outbreak. Your provider can prescribe antiviral medication in advance of your peel to prevent this.

Deep peels come with more serious risks. As we mentioned above, phenol can cause an irregular heartbeat. Phenol toxicity can also occur if too much phenol is absorbed during treatment. Talk to your primary care physician before signing up for a deep peel, especially if you have a heart condition.

Doctors on RealSelf say to wait until you’re through pregnancy and breastfeeding to have any cosmetic treatments, including chemical peels.

Many of the exfoliating acids featured in chemical peels are available in over-the-counter peels, which tend to be milder than in-office versions. According to cosmetic chemist Rhonda Davis, “the strength of an at-home chemical peel depends on the concentration of the acid solution itself and the overall pH of the product.” 

There are no regulations governing the maximum allowable percentages for acids used in at-home skincare products, though current recommendations from CIR—the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, a panel of scientists responsible for determining ingredient safety in the U.S.—advise using 10% or less glycolic and lactic acids and no more than 2% salicylic acid in DIY peels, notes Dr. Davis. 

Stronger isn’t always better. “I’ve unfortunately had patients go online and buy more potent acids meant for professional use, and they end up burning themselves and causing irreversible scarring,” says Dr. Green. For safety’s sake, purchase only products sold specifically for at-home use, and never leave a chemical solution on for longer than instructed.

Additionally, if your skin type is III to VI on the Fitzpatrick scale, stick with superficial peels to avoid the risks of hypopigmentation and extensive post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, recommends Dr. Green.

Related: How to Make the Most of Acids in Your Skin Care Routine

According to the American Academy of Dermatology, combining treatments can lead to better, longer-lasting results. 

	Botox nonsurgical	Dermal Fillers nonsurgical	Microneedling nonsurgical	Facelift surgical
Worth It Rating	97%	90%	84%	92%
Average Cost	$590	$1611	$887	$19123
Downtime	No downtime	Minimal or no downtime	1–3 days of downtime	10–14 days of downtime
Anesthesia	No anesthesia	Topical or no anesthesia	Topical anesthesia	Local w/sedation or general anesthesia

• Getting Botox or injectable fillers in conjunction with a chemical peel is common. Peels treat the surface of the skin, while injectables are placed deep within it or even below it, so the treatments shouldn’t interfere with one another. However, you should wait for two weeks after a deeper peel for your skin to heal between treatments.
• If you’re considering microneedling in addition to chemical peels for overall skin resurfacing, space those treatments two weeks apart. Applying chemical solutions to microneedled skin is risky because the tiny needles create pinprick channels into the dermis that would let the acid penetrate more deeply than it should.
• Chemical peels can be performed at the same time or after a facelift, depending on your surgeon's preference. "I prefer to do it after and add the icing to the cake,'" says Dr. Joseph Russo, a plastic surgeon in Newton Center, Massachusetts.

Both treatments exfoliate the skin, but in different ways: Microdermabrasion offers a physical exfoliation, manually scrubbing away surface skin cells, while chemical peels rely on acids to loosen the bonds between skin cells, to speed renewal.

Microdermabrasion is best for buffing away dull, rough surface skin to reveal softer, smoother skin underneath. 

Since peels can work deeper and ramp up collagen, they can treat issues stemming from below the skin’s surface, like wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and scars.

Laser Resurfacing: Lasers use thermal or photomechanical energy to break up pigment, stimulate cell turnover, and boost collagen production. Nonablative fractional lasers (like Fraxel) can improve fine lines, acne scars, and hyperpigmentation for effects comparable to a medium peel. For more serious sun damage and scarring, there’s the ablative CO2 laser, which gives results on par with a deeper peel.

Related: Chemical Peels vs. Lasers: Which Is Right for You?

IPL: Intense Pulsed Light treatments broadly target various types of pigment (red and brown) in the skin, improving areas of discoloration and ruddiness while giving skin a glow. IPL is not safe for skin of color. It’s also known to flare melasma.

Your provider can explain these options and recommend the best one for your skin type and concerns.

Lee, Wambier, Soon, Sterling, et al. “Basic Chemical Peeling: Superficial and medium-depth peels. J Am Acad Dermatol. Dec 2018.

Wambier, Lee, Soon, Sterling, Rullan, Lanau, Brody. “Advanced chemical peels: Phenol-Croton oil peel. J Am Acad Dermatol. Dec 2018.

Lee, Sterling, Wambier, Rullan et al. “Segmental phenol-Croton oil chemical peels for treatment of periorbital or perioral rhytides. J Am Acad Dermatol. Dec 2018.”

Soleymani, Teo, et al. “A Practical Approach to Chemical Peels: A Review of Fundamentals and Step-by-Step Algorithmic Protocol for Treatment.” The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, Matrix Medical Communications, Aug. 2018.

Vemula, Shalini, et al. "Assessing the safety of superficial chemical peels in darker skin: A retrospective study." J Am Acad Dermatol. 2018 Sep;79(3):508-513.e2.

Al-Talib, Hassanain, et al. “Efficacy and Safety of Superficial Chemical Peeling in Treatment of Active Acne Vulgaris.” Anais Brasileiros De Dermatologia, Sociedade Brasileira De Dermatologia, 2017.

“Chemical Peels: Preparation.” American Academy of Dermatology.

Rendon, Marta I, et al. “Evidence and Considerations in the Application of Chemical Peels in Skin Disorders and Aesthetic Resurfacing.” The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, Matrix Medical Communications, July 2010.