JESSNER PEEL

Pros

• The combination of acids in a Jessner peel can be more effective than chemical peels that contain a single acid. 
• Its combination of acids can treat a range of skin conditions, including mild eczema. 
• The Jessner peel can be customized to suit your needs. 
• In-office treatment time is typically short, usually lasting only 30 minutes or less.

Cons

• Resorcinol is a derivative of phenol, a controversial peeling agent that has been banned in Canada and the European Union, due to health concerns. Today, the resorcinol in Jessner peel solutions is often replaced by TCA, to make a modified Jessner peel, but it’s still a good idea to clarify with your doctor what your peel contains. 
• Your skin will be visibly discolored, swollen, and peeling for up to a week. 
• The Jessner's peel protocol is a commitment: you’ll need a series of up to six treatments, a month or two apart, to see optimal results.
• As with most exfoliating and resurfacing treatments, there is a risk of pigmentation issues. People with olive, brown, or deep skin tones should be especially cautious and perhaps seek a different treatment altogether.

The cost of your Jessner peel will depend on your provider’s level of experience and office location. It will also depend on the specifics of your treatment, including how many layers you’ll get, whether the peel will be combined with other treatments, and how many treatment sessions you have.

When budgeting, keep in mind that you’ll need a series of treatments for optimal results. Many practices offer discounted packages when you purchase a series of treatments upfront.

The mix of acids in the peeling solution makes it a suitable treatment for a wide range of skin concerns, from blemishes and age spots to acne scarring and wrinkles. 

However, exfoliating and resurfacing treatments like this acid peel can be risky for medium to deep skin tones, as they can cause hyperpigmentation. 

“Some skin can overpigment if not pretreated prior to a peel or any laser treatments,” says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. If you have an olive, brown, or deep skin tone, your provider may prescribe the skin-lightening agent hydroquinone, to prepare your skin. The powerful ingredient reduces the number of melanocytes (cells that incite melanin production and are responsible for pigmentation) in the skin. Carefully weigh the risks and benefits with your provider, to determine if a Jessner peel is right for you.

“Best candidates are generally those with fair skin and sun damage,” says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal.

Two to four weeks before your treatment, your provider may recommend adding a topical retinoid, like Retin-A, to your skin-care routine, to help speed cell turnover and aid exfoliation.

One week prior to your appointment, you’ll need to stop using the retinoid and other active ingredients, including benzoyl peroxide and AHA or BHA, to reduce the risk of irritation. 

As mentioned, those with medium to deep skin tones may need to do further preparation pre-peel, such as the use of hydroquinone in the weeks leading up to the appointment, to head off potential issues with excess pigmentation.

It’s also best to avoid sun exposure and antibiotics for two weeks prior, since both sensitize your skin.

At your appointment, your provider will first cleanse your skin and apply ointment or gauze to protect your eyes. Then they will brush the chemical solution onto your skin, in layers. 

“One or two layers achieves a mild to moderate peel,” says Los Angeles dermatologist Dr. A. David Rahimi. “Four to five layers results in a more aggressive peel.” 

You’ll probably feel a stinging or burning sensation as the peel is applied, and it will develop a white, frosty look. Depending on your skin concerns, your provider may top it with an additional corrective agent, such as retinol, vitamin C, or peptides.

Jessner peels are self-neutralizing, so the solution will be left on. In-office treatment time is typically 30 minutes or less, but the peel solution will continue to penetrate for several hours.

To avoid interfering with the solution, keep your skin dry for at least six to eight hours—no water, steam, or sweat.

For the first day post-peel, your skin will look swollen and inflamed, like you got a bad sunburn. It's also normal for it to feel tight. Then it will deepen to a tan or brown color and become crusty before beginning to shed. 

You’ll need about a week of social downtime as you peel and heal, if you had a medium-strength peel. “The peeling begins one to three days after treatment, is most significant for the first day after it starts, and tends to be much less after the first day,” says New York City dermatologist Dr. Dina Strachan.

It can take up to two weeks to fully heal and see your final results, though you may have lingering redness for a few months.

Proper Jessner peel aftercare is essential, to get the best results. Follow your provider’s instructions carefully, to ensure optimal healing. 

Providers typically recommend simplifying your skin-care products. Use only a gentle cleanser, simple moisturizer, and SPF 30 sunscreen (particularly a physical one with zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide) while your skin peels. 

“Avoiding sun exposure and excessive heat during the peeling process is important,” says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. That means no prolonged time spent outdoors, in saunas or steam rooms, or in high-intensity workouts.   

You should also allow your skin to shed on its own—no scratching, picking, or rubbing it—to encourage healthy healing and avoid scars.

You can resume your normal skin-care regimen and apply makeup after your skin has stopped peeling and flaking.

Within a week, your skin will have finished peeling and you’ll see the fresh, new skin that was underneath. You can expect brighter, smoother, more evenly toned skin.

To see a significant improvement in lines, scars, and even hyperpigmentation, you’ll need a series of up to six treatments, spaced four to eight weeks apart.

It takes several peeling-and-healing cycles to ameliorate concerns that originate below the surface of the skin.

See Jessner peel before and after photos

The temporary side effects of Jessner peels align with the typical inflammatory response: redness, swelling, and itching—all normal and expected as your skin heals. You can take over-the-counter anti-inflammatories or apply hydrocortisone cream to soothe those symptoms. 

More serious risks include allergic reaction, contact dermatitis, a bacterial infection, or a flare-up of a dormant viral infection (like herpes simplex 1, aka cold sores).

If you experience pain, blisters, or weeping sores, talk to your doctor to determine the cause of your symptoms and get treatment immediately.

Jessner chemical peel kits can be purchased for home use, but doctors on RealSelf say to proceed with caution.

“I wouldn't recommend doing any peel by yourself, unless you really know what you're doing,” says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal.

At-home chemical peel solutions tend to be superficial and therefore milder, but you can still do serious damage with improper use. Left on too long or used too frequently, self-applied solutions can cause burning, scarring, scabbing, irregular texture and tone, and pigmentation issues—making your skin look worse rather than better.

“Being treated under the supervision of a board-certified dermatologist [is] the safest and best treatment option,” says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal.

Related: How to Make the Most of Acids in Your Skin Care Routine

Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is often contained within a Jessner peel, but it can also be used on its own in a chemical peel solution. In a TCA peel, TCA is typically the only active ingredient. In a Jessner peel or modified version, it’s combined with salicylic acid and lactic acid.

One study comparing the two to treat melasma found that both TCA peels and modified Jessner peels with TCA are effective in reducing visible skin discoloration, but the TCA-Jessner combination yielded better results. Another study focused on acne scars also saw that results improved with a combined Jessner and TCA solution.

However, TCA peels are safer for a wider range of skin tones—darker skin tones included—with less risk of hypo- and hyperpigmentation. A TCA peel can be a superficial peel or medium-depth peel, whereas Jessner peels are always medium-depth. Neither are deep peels.

An experienced provider will recommend the best solution for your concerns.

Related: Which Type of Chemical Peel Is Right for You?

You may also consider these popular chemical peels.

• Salicylic peel: The beta hydroxy acid in this treatment is oil-soluble, allowing it to get deep into pores to remove dead skin cells and excess sebum. It works best on oily skin and for treating acne. The anti-inflammatory properties of salicylic acid also make it a good choice for treating redness and rosacea.  
• Glycolic peel: Alpha hydroxy acids, like the glycolic acid highlighted in this treatment, are water-soluble and ideal for treating surface skin concerns, like dullness, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines. 

You might also consider laser resurfacing, which similarly removes surface skin to correct tone and texture issues, or IPL, which primarily reduces hyperpigmentation and redness.

Nikalji, Nanma, et al. “Complications of Medium Depth and Deep Chemical Peels.” Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, vol. 5, no. 4, Oct. 2012.

Puri, Neerja. “Efficacy of Modified Jessner′s Peel and 20% TCA versus 20% TCA Peel Alone for the Treatment of Acne Scars.” Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, vol. 8, no. 1, Jan. 2015.

Safoury, Omarsoliman, et al. “A Study Comparing Chemical Peeling Using Modified Jessner′s Solution and 15% Trichloroacetic Acid versus 15% Trichloroacetic Acid in the Treatment of Melasma.” Indian Journal of Dermatology, vol. 54, no. 1, Jan. 2009.