Winter might just be the perfect time to try out a chemical peel and get a complexion that’s “smoother, healthier, brighter, and more even in texture, tone, and color,” according to Dr. Ava Shamban, a board-certified dermatologist in Beverly Hills, California. The sun isn’t as strong (so it’s less likely you’ll get sun damage), you’re taking advantage of all the work-from-home days you can get (more sun protection), and your face is shielded by warm hats and big scarves. But the big question is, should you splurge on an in-office peel or go the DIY route with a chemical peel at home?
There are many different types of chemical peels out there. So, we asked three dermatologists to break down the differences between professional and over-the-counter peels, to help you decide which is best for you.
What is an in-office peel?
“An in-office peel is a skin-resurfacing technique in which a chemical solution is applied to the face to remove the outer surface layers of skin, allowing new, healthy skin to emerge,” says Dr. Michele Green, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. Essentially, that chemical solution offers heavy-hitting chemical exfoliation, helping to slough off dead skin cells and, as such, treat a variety of complexion concerns. With regular appointments, chemical peels can reverse years of sun damage and help rejuvenate the skin by breaking up dead skin cells and removing them. “Patients concerned with superficial fine lines, sunspots, and pigmentation are ideal candidates for chemical peels,” explains Dr. Green. Depending on the intensity and depth of the peel, it can even eliminate some freckles and combat melasma or acne scars too.
Chemical peels are not one-size-fits-all; they come in a range of strengths (superficial, medium-depth, and deep peels) and active ingredients, depending on your skin concern. “Salicylic acid, kojic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, hydroquinone, and trichloroacetic acid (TCA) are some of the most common [peeling agents] used to promote cellular turnover at different depths,” says Dr. Shamban. “The most intense in-office peels may use phenol to facilitate the process of manually shedding dead cells and resurfacing the skin.”
Unlike a chemical peel at home, in-office peels are always administered by a licensed and trained provider. “Since in-office peels are performed in a controlled setting under the guidance of a medical professional, they can be performed at stronger concentrations, for better results,” says Dr. Green. “In-office peels can also be performed in addition to using prescription topicals, such as tretinoin or Tazorac, for added efficacy.”
Related: The Ultimate Guide to Understanding and Treating Melasma
What is a chemical peel at home?
At-home chemical peels are usually less intensive than in-office peels and use alpha hydroxy acids (such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, or malic acid), beta hydroxy acids (such as salicylic acid), or fruit enzymes (often times papaya enzyme) to penetrate and exfoliate only the outer layers of the skin, according to Dr. Shamban. “They will target fine lines and more superficial wrinkles while mildly improving discoloration issues or age spots,” she says. (Some, particularly BHA options, can be a good way to help keep skin clear and prevent pimples, a helpful option for those with acne-prone skin.) Other active ingredients include retinoic acid, azelaic acid, arbutin, phytic acid, or ascorbic acid but are often found at lower percentages than in in-office peels containing the same ingredients.
Like in-office peels, at-home skin-care products work to dissolve the top layers of dead skin cells on the epidermis, promoting cell turnover and collagen production and resulting in a brighter complexion. “However, melasma, hormonal changes contributing to pigmentation issues, freckles, more significant lines, or static wrinkles are in the deeper layers of the dermis, so most at-home peels will not have a significant effect [on these skin concerns], if [any],” explains Dr. Shamban.
What’s the difference in downtime?
The downtime for peels really depends on the strength of the ingredients—after all, the different kinds of chemical peels often have different levels of intensity. “At-home peels should not have any downtime—however, certain ingredients can be irritating to sensitive skin and may cause breakouts,” says Dr. Hooman Khorasani, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. In-office superficial peels, like those with glycolic acid or lactic acid, are mild and have no associated downtime. They’re often called “lunchtime peels” because they can be performed in about 15–30 minutes. “They require more treatments to achieve full results but leave no telltale signs behind,” says Dr. Green.
Moderate or medium-depth professional peels, like TCA peels, are stronger and may require a day or two of downtime, due to flaking and peeling of the skin. The deepest chemical peels, like phenol peels, are used to treat deeper wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, melasma, and scarring from acne and blemishes. “These peels require more downtime, as they penetrate deeper, into the dermal layers of the skin,” says Dr. Green. “Deep peels often require the use of a topical anesthetic, applied 30 to 60 minutes prior to the application of the peel, and should be performed by a licensed trained professional.”
Depending on the in-office or at-home treatment used, your skin might be flushed, red, or tan in color immediately following application and may feel warm or tight. Within 24 hours after an in-office peel, “the skin will begin to slough off and literally shed its layers, continuing for one to five days—or even up to seven days or more, depending on the intensity, depth, and level of penetration,” says Dr. Shamban. “During this time, the skin requires significant moisture and hydration—usually a salve or balm is best.” Additionally, Dr. Shamban recommends applying sunscreen (SPF 50) post-procedure and avoiding sun exposure as best as possible, as the new skin will be highly sensitive. To that point, any products you use in the days and even weeks post-peel—cleansers, moisturizers—should be extra mild. And any kind of highly active anti-aging ingredients, think retinol or even vitamin C, are also a no-go until your skin is fully healed.
Related: 3 Pro-Strength Chemical Peels for Every Hyperpigmentation Problem
What are the risks associated with chemical peels?
“Chemical peels often get a bad reputation, but most of the side effects of a chemical peel are usually a result of physician inexperience in treating different skin types,” says Dr. Green. “In addition, chemical peels have come a long way over the years, with more sophisticated ingredients and strengths to target every skin type and skin issues ranging from acne, hyperpigmentation [and] melasma to acne scarring—there is a peel for practically every skin type and every issue.”
If your physician performs the wrong treatment for your skin tone, there are some risks involved, including hypopigmentation, hyperpigmentation, redness, irritation, and potential scarring for deeper peels. “Anything that can irritate or inflame the skin can lead to [pigmentation issues],” says Dr. Khorasani. “Even though some peels can treat hyperpigmentation, most cause inflammation—which can result, paradoxically, [in] more hyperpigmentation, especially in [brown-skinned] patients.”
The risk in using a chemical peel at home is that acids are unpredictable and can do more harm than good if not used in a controlled, sterile environment. “It is hard to determine how your skin will react to any particular acid, and therefore you risk skin burns, scarring, hyperpigmentation, or a skin infection if you are not careful,” explains Dr. Green. “If the proper precautions are not used, there is a risk of severe burns or scars if an inappropriate peel is applied to your skin or left on too long.”
Dr. Green recommends performing a small skin test on the inner arm prior to applying product all over the face.
What kind of results can you expect from the different types of chemical peels?
Since in-office peels are much stronger and promote cellular turnover at a deeper depth than chemical peels at home, you’ll notice a bigger difference if you go with the former. Light chemical peels applied at home generally are best if you’re after an overall brightening effect and generally glowing skin, since they work on a more superficial level. (With consistent use, they can help improve discoloration, and uneven skin texture.) On the flip side, stronger, in-office facial peels are much better for treating more significant signs of aging or super stubborn dark spots.
What is the difference in cost?
As you’d expect, in-office peels are more expensive, averaging around $400 per session. So if you’re not ready to drop a few hundred bucks, consider making at-home peels a part of your regular skin-care routine. For a chemical peel at home, both Dr. Shamban and Dr. Green recommend The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution ($7.20), since “it contains 30% AHA and 2% BHA and offers a mild exfoliation, which makes the skin brighter,” says Dr. Green. Dr. Shamban loves Exuviance Performance Peel AP²5 ($79), while Dr. Khorasani recommends the Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial 25% AHA + 2% BHA Mask ($80), Dior Capture Youth Age-Delay Progressive Peeling Crème ($95), and Tata Harper Resurfacing BHA Glow Mask ($65). The Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel ($88) is a cult favorite, featuring single use, two-step peel pads that you simply swipe all-over nightly (per the name, it combines both alpha and beta hydroxy acids). Alpha and beta hydroxy acids are also the star of the show in the Obagi Clinical Blue Brilliance Triple Acid Peel ($145), and you only need to use one vial every two weeks in order to see the results.
