I Have Type 3-4 Skin and Want to Get Laser Hair Removal. Which is Better, Diode or Alexandrite?

Question

I want to remove some of the hair on my sideburn area. Some of the hairs are lighter than others and I know I won't get 100% removal, but I'd like to get rid of the darker hairs without a great risk of hyperpigmentation or inducing excess hair growth. During some consultations I was told that the Alexandrite would be fine for reducing some of the sideburn area, while at others I was told that I should never use an Alexandrite on my skin. What should I do?

Ron Shelton, MD · Answer

Laser hair removal works best on dark hair. Since your skin is somewhat dark, there is a risk that the epidermis would absorb more energy than is desired and this can cause a burn. Therefore a longer wavelength laser, that penetrates deeper in the dermis and not as superficial as the shorter wavelength lasers, won't risk injury to the epidermal pigmentation as much. Risks still occur and test spots can be done to determine what the best energy level is. It may take more treatments and might be less effective to reduce hair growth in darker skin as the energy level must be cautiously set and not be high.

Anil R. Shah, MD · Answer

Fitzpatrick 3-4 skin and dark hair is often the best combination for laser as it targets the color in the hair (for this reason blonde haired patients are often not good candidates). There is not a single best laser to treat hair. Each laser has its pros and cons. Although many lasers are available with brand names, the key is to look at the frequency of laser to determine its effectiveness. Types of LASERS:Diode- Perhaps the best studied and good for many skin types (the type I favor in my practice).IPL- Not as effective as diode in head to head studies and not good for all skin types. May require more treatments.Nd:YAG lasers- A good selection for darker haired patients. May require more treatments than diode and has a smaller spot size typically and may require more treatmentsAlexandrite- Best for lighter skin types however it is almost as effective as diode in efficacy.

Harold J. Kaplan, MD · Answer

Hi ANY.  Your skin type is suitable for either laser with proper cooling, but we prefer the Lumenis Lightsheer because it uses contact cooling rather than air cooling.  As the other practitioners have stated, the long pulsed Nd:Yg laser is also an option, but we typically do not use this unless the hair is very coarse (Middle Eastern, Persian) or if the skin is very dark, African American.

	With an experienced practitioner, you should do fine with the Lightsheer.

Jessica J. Krant, MD, MPH · Answer

If you are concerned about the safety of laser hair removal due to your darker skin type and risk of hyperpigmentation, the longer wavelength lasers will be better for you. The Nd:YAG (CoolGlide) laser is what we use in our office with good results and little to no risk of dark marks left when safe treatment parameters are used. This laser also has contact cooling which additionally decreases the risk of hypo- or hyperpigmentation from the cooling itself.

Harlow Hollis, MD · Answer

Type 3-4 skin is borderline for reliable safety when having hair removal with lasers. Even darker skin types (type 5 for example) can have laser hair removal BUT the laser has to be a long wave length (say 1064 nm) and not the diodes nor the Alexandrite...........they may very well give you a burn. You need a doctor to carefully treat you with lasers to prevent injury (burns) and the difference between diodes and Alexandrite is not too significant. Diodes can have different wavelengths so the actual wave length is important to know where as the Alexandrite has only one wavelength (755 nm). A diode with longer wave length is safer than a diode with a shorter wave length.

	Having the laser treatment done when your skin is the least tanned (mid winter perhaps?) would be the best time. Sun blocks to reduce any sun stimulation of your melanin (pigmentation) for a month or more in the area to be treated may also help reduce your skin pigment and make the laser safer.

I Have Type 3-4 Skin and Want to Get Laser Hair Removal. Which is Better, Diode or Alexandrite?

Answers (7)

Answer: Nd:YAG laser best for hair removal on darker skin types.

Answer: Nd:YAG laser best for hair removal on darker skin types.

Answer: Hair removal lasers work best when the skin is not dark.

Answer: Hair removal lasers work best when the skin is not dark.

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Everything you need to know about Laser Hair Removal

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I Have Type 3-4 Skin and Want to Get Laser Hair Removal. Which is Better, Diode or Alexandrite?

Answers (7)

Answer: Nd:YAG laser best for hair removal on darker skin types.

Answer: Nd:YAG laser best for hair removal on darker skin types.

Answer: Hair removal lasers work best when the skin is not dark.

Answer: Hair removal lasers work best when the skin is not dark.

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Recommended reading

Everything you need to know about Laser Hair Removal

Our mission is to create a world where every investment in modern beauty is Worth It.