Glycolic acid. What is the recommended % for a first time user?

Question

What percentage should I start out using Im A black female lite skin. I have some acne and some darker spots what is a good %for me to start with thanks doctor

Jason Emer, MD · Answer

I am not the biggest fan of GA peels, as they are inflammatory and often, even though safe in dark skin, sometimes cause a rebound darkening.  I tend to be more attracted to salicylic acid peels in darker skin, starting with 20% and working my way up to 30-35%.  If you chose to go with glycolic, Id start with 20-30% and work your way up to 50-70%.  Please seek a dermatologist with training in cosmetic procedures including peels and lasers in darker skin types.  Clean and brilliant or Fraxel laser are very useful fractional non-ablative lasers in darker skin types that can help very well with pigmentation.  Above all, however, it is important not to pick or pluck your skin, that may be a cause of the dark spots in areas of acne or hair follicles.  Also, it is necessary to have a vitamin C, hydroquinone and/or vitamin A topical treatment, to help for skin lightening and prevention of future pigmentation.  Sun screens that are "broad spectrum" are to be used a few times daily as well.  I wish you the best of luck, Dr. Emer.

A. David Rahimi, MD · Answer

Good morning, Up to 12% Glycolic acid is sold over the counter in a variety of formulations. If you have sensitive skin you should start with light peels of 5% to 10%. In my office I do use 25%, 30%, and up to %50 Glycolic acid. I personally apply them and wash it off quickly after a minute or two. You can get serious burns from Glycolic acid. Please see an experienced Dermatologist for the stronger formulations. I trained in NY and Washington D.C. and have a lot of experience with darker skin. Glycolic acid is great for fine line, brown spots, active acne, and discoloration but will not remove our acne scars. Good luck.David

Armin Moshyedi, MD · Answer

Glycolic acid can come in any concentration from 0 up to a maximum 70%. There are many over the counter products you can start off with as a first time user. Everyone has a different sensitivity, so it is best to start low to be safe and work your way up.I would start with lowest concentration you can find. Around 4% is pretty low, well tolerated and commonly found in some cleansers. If your skin tolerates this well (without excessive stinging, redness, dryness and peeling) you can then work your way up to a 10% cream. If you tolerate this well you can go up to a 20% cream. If you tolerate this, you can then go with in-office peels from 20% up to 70%. You can find these strong concentrations of glycolic acid for use as an at-home peel, but it takes a lot of experience to know how to use these, so if you want to go higher than 20%, go to a plastic surgeon or dermatologist.

Glycolic acid. What is the recommended % for a first time user?

Answers (3)

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