My melasma is getting darker/worse with the use of retinol. Is this normal for it to get worse before it improves? (photos)

Melasma is one of the most difficult skin conditions to treat as it is triggered by hormones and exacerbated by heat. What this means is that while most pigmentation issues respond well to lasers such as IPL, Melasma has a tendency to get worse after heat is exposed to the area. Here are my recommendations for treating Melasma, good luck.
------Chemical Peels- Peels such as the Melanage Peel or the Reve Peel offer safe results for patients with Melasma. A combination of acids and non-acids penetrate the skin to lift micropigmentiaton. You will also be sent home with an at-home care regimen to maintain your resutls.
-------Lasers- The safest way to treat melasma via laser is with a laser that fires in Picoseconds. This is to insure a careful heating of the skin not to further exacerbate the melasma. Here in my office we use the Piqo4 Laser by Lumenis. It is the only laser proven to treat melasma safely and effectively.
It is important to know that melasma is a moving target and requires patience and diligence to treat.
Best,
Anil Shah

Melasma and age spots can be due to hormones, aging, sun exposure, thyroid dysfunction, and genetics. Treatments range from IPL to laser therapy; but pigmentation may recur if not complemented with topical creams to stabilize the pigment cells.

I would suggest starting with Melarase Brightening Kit with Melaclenz, Melapads, Melarase AM, and Melarase PM to help stabilize pigmentation and reduce recurrence. Once started, an active protocol that includes Covalent peels, IPL, fractional laser, and microneedling can further remove pigmentation.
Best, 
Dr. Karamanoukian
Realself100 Surgeon

Thank you for your question.   I would recommend to start using hydroquinone 4% morning and night two weeks prior to laser treatment. Fractional treatment is very effective for suppressing discoloration and evening out skintone.  Skinpen which is a microneedling device that would also be beneficial for getting rid of melasma.  The microneedling treatment helps to wake up your natural growth factors, shrink your pores, fade discoloration and acne scars, and help increase collagen and elastin production. You would do a treatment every 4 weeks and stay out of the sun as much as possible and always wear spf 50 broad sprectrum.  Always consult with your physician first before starting a treatment.  

If you are using an exfoliant, the melasma can get worse if they are over-used or used incorrectly. Melasma needs a combination approach to get the best improvement and will need a series of treatments. In our practice, we combine Clear + Brilliant, peels (Cosmelan Peel), Microneedling/PRP, Aerolase, and sometimes Erbium Laser (Coollaser) to get the best results. See an expert for a formal evaluation. Best, Dr. Emer

No, melasma should not get worse BEFORE getting better. In your situation it maybe some PIH or irritation, try using less, and less often. The mainstay of treatment is with sun protection first. Acne scar revision comprises of specialised procedures. For the best results, one should target the acne scar type with ideal treatments METHODS. Using one device is not optimal. As everyone has a unique pattern of acne scarring, the best solution is a tailored one.  The web reference below will take you to a resource to help you understand acne scar revision at a specialist level. I embedded all the videos in one page to help. 

As an example deep ice pick scars, and narrow box car scars are best treated with TCA CROSS. Deep narrow scars respond better to this treatment than even the most expensive lasers. On the flip side, rolling, and atrophic acne scars can improve with fractional devices such as Fraxel, fractional lasers, ProFractional erbium lasers, Infiini –Intensif –Intracel radiofrequency microneedling. Atrophic scars (depressions) can be treated with either fat grafts, PRP or dermal fillers. Tethered and anchored scars are best treated with surgical techniques such as subcision. Other surgical techniques that I use include punch elevation, surgical elevation, punch excision and traditional excision for focal scars. Early and very mild acne scars respond well to eMatrix and non-energy microneedling, as well as vascular lasers. Skin colour changes such as PIH or dark marks respond best to sun protection, creams, and Q switch lasers in the nano and pico pulse durations. 

The majority of patients will have a collection of different scar types, and hence a tailored treatment METHOD will be best. Careful examination, especially under angled lighting with scar mapping will give you an understanding of what are the best options for your scars. Additionally tactile examination namely touch will give me an understanding of the amount of subdermal fibrosis, as special equipment is needed for this sub-set of acne scars.  In the majority of patients its finding the correct combination that give you best results, and everyone is unique! It is never about the device, its about the specialist behind the equipment that will deliver the best outcomes. All the best, Dr Davin Lim. Acne scar dermatologist specialist. Brisbane, Australia.