Is it likely that an OTC retinol (e.g., Paula's Choice 1% Retinol) may worsen my melasma even if I continue to use sunscreen daily? For how long can retinol products like this be used safely (my main concern is NOT to worsen my melasma).
April 30, 2018
Answer: Yes, as melanin needs to be reduced, and retinol can be irritating. Yes- retinol can worsen melasma due to skin irritation. If your melanocytes are still active, melanin will be produced. Ideally a tyrosinase inhibitor should be combined. Combination treatments will give you a much higher success rate. Melasma can not be completely cured, however effective treatment are possible. This is because your skin is extremely sensitive to UV and even the smallest amount can stimulate your pigment cells to produce colour. The mainstay of treatment is strict UV protection- hats, sunglasses and SPF every 4 hours. I prefer to use a combination of creams and laser for melasma. Hydroquinone can be used (5-8%), along with vitamin A creams. I usually start my patients on laser (low dose Q switch or Picosure) a few weeks after they commence on creams. Another laser I use is the Clear and Brilliant in the Permea setting combined with creams. In some cases I combine glycolic AHA peels, and in other cases I use a tablet called Tranexamic acid to help. Melasma treatments should be tailored to each patient. All the best, Dr Davin Lim. Laser, surgical and aesthetic dermatologist. Brisbane, Australia
Helpful 1 person found this helpful
April 30, 2018
Answer: Yes, as melanin needs to be reduced, and retinol can be irritating. Yes- retinol can worsen melasma due to skin irritation. If your melanocytes are still active, melanin will be produced. Ideally a tyrosinase inhibitor should be combined. Combination treatments will give you a much higher success rate. Melasma can not be completely cured, however effective treatment are possible. This is because your skin is extremely sensitive to UV and even the smallest amount can stimulate your pigment cells to produce colour. The mainstay of treatment is strict UV protection- hats, sunglasses and SPF every 4 hours. I prefer to use a combination of creams and laser for melasma. Hydroquinone can be used (5-8%), along with vitamin A creams. I usually start my patients on laser (low dose Q switch or Picosure) a few weeks after they commence on creams. Another laser I use is the Clear and Brilliant in the Permea setting combined with creams. In some cases I combine glycolic AHA peels, and in other cases I use a tablet called Tranexamic acid to help. Melasma treatments should be tailored to each patient. All the best, Dr Davin Lim. Laser, surgical and aesthetic dermatologist. Brisbane, Australia
Helpful 1 person found this helpful