Can lactic acid peels or cool peels (Environ) make melasma worse?

Question

I used to love getting peels but ever since I've had melasma lactic acid and cool peels seem to make my melasma look darker. Could this be because the skin around the melasma looks lighter? Thank you.

Jason Emer, MD · Answer

Thank you for your question, Melasma needs a combination approach to get the best improvement and will need a series of treatments. In our practice, we combine Clear + Brilliant, peels, microneedling/PRP, Aerolase, and sometimes Erbium (Cool Laser) to get the best results. See an expert for a formal evaluation. Best, Dr. Emer

Monika Soni, MD · Answer

Thank you for your question! After a thorough skin prep with Melarase AM and Melarase PM; we would recommend the Covalent peel to help exfoliate the skin and improve the melasma.  Best of luck!

Davin Lim, MBBS, FACD - Account Suspended · Answer

Yes this could contribute to worsening of melasma. Peels should never be used without inhibition of tyrosinase. Melasma is a very common cause of skin pigmentation. It can not be completely cured, however effective treatment are possible. This is because your skin is extremely sensitive to UV and even the smallest amount can stimulate your pigment cells to produce colour. The mainstay of treatment is strict UV protection- hats, sunglasses and SPF every 4 hours. This forms the foundation of all treatments.

I prefer to use a combination of creams and laser for melasma. Hydroquinone can be used (5-8%), along with vitamin A creams or Meladerm. I start my patients on laser (low dose Q switch or Picosure) as this has shown to decrease pigment production by decreasing the activity of the cells that produce pigment. Laser itself is not aimed at ‘blasting’ pigment, but to slow down the rate of melanin production. Another laser I use is the Clear and Brilliant in the 1927 Permea setting combined with creams. IPL should never be used to treat mixed melasma as it often worsens the condition (this is termed ‘Rebound Melasma’)

In some cases I combine glycolic AHA peels, and in other cases I use a tablet called Tranexamic acid to help. Melasma treatments should be tailored to each patient according the type of melasma. Majority of patients will have mixed dermal and epidermal melasma. Approach melasma as a medical condition and not a cosmetic concern, and the success rate will be much higher.

Consult a Board Certified Laser dermatologist with a special interest in disorders in pigmentation as well as one who has experience in treating all skin types, including darker Ethnic skin.

All the best, Dr Davin Lim. Laser, surgical and aesthetic dermatologist. Brisbane, Australia. Real Self Advisory Board

Can lactic acid peels or cool peels (Environ) make melasma worse?

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Can lactic acid peels or cool peels (Environ) make melasma worse?

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Everything you need to know about Laser Resurfacing

Our mission is to create a world where every investment in modern beauty is Worth It.