Q: What are the pros and cons of dermaplaning?

Pros Dermaplaning is relatively inexpensive for an in-office procedure. It’s quick and painless, with no downtime afterward. Most patients see a difference in their skin immediately after a treatment and report that skin-care products are more readily absorbed. It’s appropriate for most skin types, unless you have an active acne or rosacea flare-up. Your makeup should go on more smoothly after your treatment. Dermaplaning may prevent breakouts, since removing the vellus hair can reduce the accumulation of acne-causing bacteria. Cons Results are temporary, lasting only three to four weeks. You’ll need a series of up to six treatments to see a more lasting improvement in acne scars or fine lines. If you have an active acne or rosacea flare-up, dermaplaning may not be a good option. The sharp scalpel could nick existing pimples, causing them to become inflamed and infected. Although excess oil is removed prior to dermaplaning, the treatment can be less effective on overly oily skin, since the blade can’t properly catch the vellus hairs.

Question 1

What is dermaplaning?

Accepted Answer

Dermaplaning is a skin rejuvenation treatment that’s done in-office by a dermatologist or aesthetician, who uses a surgical scalpel to gently scrape away dead cells and vellus hair (aka peach fuzz) from your skin’s surface. Similar to shaving, it’s typically performed on the face—but because the doctor uses a scalpel rather than a razor, the sloughing goes deeper than you’re able to achieve at home.

The benefits are similar to what you’d get with other in-office exfoliating treatments, such as microdermabrasion or a mild chemical peel:

Brightening and evening skin tone
Creating a smoother texture
Diminishing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and acne scars

Unlike other exfoliating treatment options that may irritate sensitive skin or cause hyperpigmentation, dermaplaning is a viable exfoliating option for most skin types.

Several RealSelf members also say removing the vellus hair makes their makeup go on more smoothly and evenly.

Finally, because the treatment removes the top layer of dead cells, it may also improve the absorption of skin-care products for up to 21 days—the approximate length of time it takes for a new layer of dead skin cells to accumulate.

Question 2

What are the pros and cons of dermaplaning?

Accepted Answer

Pros

Dermaplaning is relatively inexpensive for an in-office procedure.
It’s quick and painless, with no downtime afterward.
Most patients see a difference in their skin immediately after a treatment and report that skin-care products are more readily absorbed.
It’s appropriate for most skin types, unless you have an active acne or rosacea flare-up.
Your makeup should go on more smoothly after your treatment.
Dermaplaning may prevent breakouts, since removing the vellus hair can reduce the accumulation of acne-causing bacteria.

Cons

Results are temporary, lasting only three to four weeks.
You’ll need a series of up to six treatments to see a more lasting improvement in acne scars or fine lines.
If you have an active acne or rosacea flare-up, dermaplaning may not be a good option. The sharp scalpel could nick existing pimples, causing them to become inflamed and infected.
Although excess oil is removed prior to dermaplaning, the treatment can be less effective on overly oily skin, since the blade can’t properly catch the vellus hairs.

Question 3

How much does dermaplaning cost?

Accepted Answer

Your price will depend on whether a doctor or aesthetician performs the procedure, where their practice is located, whether you’re paying for a single treatment or a package, and whether you undergo dermaplaning in conjunction with another facial treatment.

See our complete guide to dermaplaning costs

Question 4

Dermaplaning before and after pictures

Accepted Answer

The dermaplaning photos in our gallery have been shared by the provider who performed the procedure, with the patient's consent.

Question 5

Is dermaplaning safe?

Accepted Answer

In the wrong hands, dermaplaning can result in nicks or cuts. Doctors on RealSelf urge you to undergo a dermaplaning treatment only at the hands of an experienced dermatologist, plastic surgeon, physician, or certified aesthetician in a doctor’s office.

“Care must be taken to remain only in the superficial layer of the skin. When the blade enters the deeper layers of the dermis, you can expect small areas of pinpoint bleeding. For this reason, dermaplaning should be done by a physician or under direct physician supervision,” says Miami plastic surgeon Dr. Pat Pazmino in a RealSelf Q&A.

Although home dermaplaning products do exist, most doctors caution against attempting dermaplaning at home (with a traditional razor or a dermaplaning tool) because of the potential to scrape too deeply, injure your skin, and cause scarring.

If you have a history of cold sores, share that information with your doctor or aesthetician, since any exfoliating treatment can trigger a herpes flare-up. To be safe, a doctor may prescribe an antiviral medication, such as Valtrex.

Question 6

What happens during dermaplaning?

Accepted Answer

First, skin is typically prepped with an alcohol swab to remove excess oil. (The procedure should be painless, so no local anesthesia or topical numbing cream is applied.) Your doctor or aesthetician uses one hand to gently stretch each area of skin so it’s taut and smooth, then carefully slides the scalpel over the skin’s surface, scraping away dead skin cells and facial hair with short, quick strokes. Most treatments take between 20 and 30 minutes.

In Dr. Goldman’s practice, the sloughing is followed by a collagen mask to moisturize the skin. Other doctors use dermaplaning as a precursor to another in-office treatment, such as a medical facial or a chemical peel, because removing those dead skin cells helps improve the penetrability of any subsequent procedure. A treatment should also always end with an application of sunscreen, because exfoliating can make your skin extra-sensitive to the sun.

Question 7

What can you expect after dermaplaning?

Accepted Answer

“There’s no downtime at all, though your skin may be pink for an hour or so after the treatment,” says Dr. Goldman. “Some patients have dermaplaning done at lunch and go right back to work.” If your skin does become irritated or you develop a rash, let your doctor know right away. In that case, the blade may have removed too much skin and interrupted your skin’s barrier function, allowing too much moisture out and irritants in. Typically, a rich, occlusive moisturizer—or a few drops of hydrocortisone cream—will help soothe and nourish the inflamed skin until your skin’s moisture barrier can repair itself.

Question 8

Are there risks and side effects with dermaplaning?

Accepted Answer

There are no serious side effects associated with dermaplaning, but Dr. Goldman recommends avoiding sun and excessive heat exposure for three to five days and diligently slathering on sunscreen, to minimize the risk of hyperpigmentation. He also says to scale back on at-home exfoliation for the same amount of time, to minimize the risk of irritation performed by overexfoliating.

Dermaplaning at home comes with its own risks, like accidentally injuring your skin by scraping too deeply.

RealSelf Tip: Dr. Steven Goldman, a plastic surgeon in Beechwood, Ohio, tells his patients to stop any chemical and manual exfoliation for three to five days before a treatment to minimize the risk of irritation.

Question 9

Does dermaplaning make hair grow back thicker?

Accepted Answer

Does dermaplaning make hair grow back thicker?

Don’t worry that removing your vellus hair (peach fuzz) could make it grow back thicker, say doctors on RealSelf. As Dr. Sue Ellen Cox, a dermatologic surgeon from Chapel Hill, North Carolina, explains, “it’s a common and false misconception that shaving or dermaplaning causes hair to grow back darker or coarser. Hair will grow back at a normal rate and will not change in any way.” RealSelf members back this up in their reviews.

“Dermaplaning does not make vellus hair grow thicker, contrary to common belief.”—Dr. Georges Kaado, a Virginia physician

Question 10

Does dermaplaning work?

Accepted Answer

Dermaplaning effectively removes the top layer of dead skin cells, which evens skin tone and texture while reducing the appearance of acne scars and fine lines. However, some doctors say you’ll need a series of treatments to see significant results.

Orlando, Florida, plastic surgeon Dr. Armando Soto says in a RealSelf Q&A, “As with any exfoliation treatment, the best results of dermaplaning occur after a series of treatments. Typically, a series includes six treatments, but many patients feel they begin to see positive changes in their skin within two to three treatments."

Question 11

How long does dermaplaning last?

Accepted Answer

The results are not permanent, and how often you choose to receive treatment will depend on your budget, schedule, and skin profile. “Your skin will look smooth, luminous, and radiant right away,” says Dr. Goldman, although he recommends repeating the treatment every four to six weeks for maintenance.

Question 12

What are some alternatives to dermaplaning?

Accepted Answer

Microdermabrasion buffs off dead skin cells, using microparticles of diamonds or other abrasive crystals. Each in-office session lasts between 20 minutes to an hour, and there’s no downtime. Results last for about the same amount of time as dermaplaning, but its average cost is slightly higher, and it may be more irritating for sensitive skin.

Microneedling may be a better choice for people with acne scars, wrinkles, and mildly sagging skin. A series of in-office microneedling treatments stimulates collagen and elastin production, which improves skin’s radiance, firmness, and texture over time. It tends to be more expensive than dermaplaning, and you’d have a few days of redness after each session, but microneedling creates more dramatic changes in the skin.

Laser resurfacing treatments are usually more effective than dermaplaning for treating acne scars and wrinkles. Laser treatments can be mild (non-ablative, which leaves the skin’s surface mostly intact) or more intense (ablative, which removes the top layer). By heating up the surface of the skin, lasers also trigger the body’s healing response, which produces more collagen. Depending on which type of laser you’re treated with, you may have a week’s worth of downtime or none at all. More intense treatments deliver more dramatic, lasting results.

Chemical peels involve applying an acidic solution to the skin to remove dead skin cells (or the whole top layer), depending on whether you get a mild, medium, or deep peel. Downtime ranges from a few days to a week.

Related: 7 Best Skin Treatments You Can Get for Under $250

DERMAPLANING

Georges Kaado, MD

Genevieve Monsma

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	Dermaplaning nonsurgical	Microdermabrasion nonsurgical	Microneedling nonsurgical	Laser Resurfacing nonsurgical	Chemical Peel nonsurgical
Worth It Rating	83%	95%	84%	89%	85%
Average Cost	$133	$173	$887	$2733	$429
Downtime	No downtime	No downtime	1–3 days of downtime	1–12 days of downtime (depending on intensity)	Up to 2 weeks of downtime
Anesthesia	No anesthesia	No anesthesia	Topical anesthesia	Topical anesthesia	No anesthesia

Georges Kaado, MD

Genevieve Monsma

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