Q: Microdermabrasion pros and cons

Pros The treatment takes less than an hour, and downtime is minimal. You’ll see results like smoother, brighter skin immediately. This is a noninvasive, safe procedure. It’s painless. You won’t need anesthesia or a numbing agent. It’s safe for most skin colors and skin types. Cons You’ll need more than one session for optimal results Results can be subtle. If you’re looking for more dramatic skin rejuvenation, consider a chemical peel, laser resurfacing, or microneedling combined with radiofrequency. Side effects are rare, but you might experience some swelling, tenderness, or redness for a few hours after your treatment. Microdermabrasion may worsen skin conditions, like rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, active acne, herpes, and warts. It’s also contraindicated for those with a history of hypertrophic scars, including keloids.

Question 1

What is microdermabrasion?

Accepted Answer

Microdermabrasion treatment gently removes the top layer of skin—the stratum corneum, overlying the epidermis—and then vacuums away dead and damaged cells. The result is a brighter, more even skin tone with a smoother texture.

This no-downtime skin rejuvenation procedure can:

correct uneven skin tone, fade discoloration and dark spots, reduce sun damage, and brighten dull skin
diminish the appearance of mild acne, fine lines, age spots and other signs of aging
treat melasma
effectively treat vitiligo when combined with tacrolimus (a cream often used to treat eczema)
eliminate blackheads for a clearer complexion
improve your skin-care results by allowing skin care products to penetrate more easily

Dr. Janet Allenby, a board-certified dermatologist in Delray Beach, Florida, is a fan of this cosmetic procedure—both as a provider and a patient. “Microdermabrasion has been used for well over 20 years in my practices, and it still amazes me how nice the skin tone becomes after even a single treatment,” she says. “With a lot of experience under our belts, we can augment the treatment with a light chemical peel at the same time.” Her best advice about microdermabrasion: “Know who is treating you.”

Dr. Amy Paul, a dermatologic surgeon in Grand Junction, Colorado, also recommends it to her patients. “Microdermabrasion is a great treatment for cleaning out the pores and giving skin a bit of a glow for a few days.”

So what can’t it do?

This is not an effective treatment for acne scars. According to Dr. Francis Johns, a board-certified plastic surgeon in Greensburg, Pennsylvania, “Unless the acne scars are very superficial, microdermabrasion is not going to do anything for them. You need deeper resurfacing for acne scarring, such as microneedling or laser treatments that go down into the dermis.”
You may see a mild improvement in the appearance of stretch marks, but any results are usually very subtle.
It won’t permanently remove hair. While the exfoliating particles expelled from microdermabrasion devices may banish peach fuzz (simply by sloughing them off the skin’s surface), doctors on RealSelf say the procedure does not uproot hair follicles or cause permanent hair removal.

Question 2

Microdermabrasion pros and cons

Accepted Answer

Pros

The treatment takes less than an hour, and downtime is minimal.
You’ll see results like smoother, brighter skin immediately.
This is a noninvasive, safe procedure.
It’s painless. You won’t need anesthesia or a numbing agent.
It’s safe for most skin colors and skin types.

Cons

You’ll need more than one session for optimal results
Results can be subtle. If you’re looking for more dramatic skin rejuvenation, consider a chemical peel, laser resurfacing, or microneedling combined with radiofrequency.
Side effects are rare, but you might experience some swelling, tenderness, or redness for a few hours after your treatment.
Microdermabrasion may worsen skin conditions, like rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, active acne, herpes, and warts. It’s also contraindicated for those with a history of hypertrophic scars, including keloids.

Question 3

How much does microdermabrasion cost?

Accepted Answer

Your cost will depend on the experience level of your provider, their practice location, and the size of the treated area. Some offices offer discounts or special deals, if you buy a series of treatments up front.

See our complete guide to microdermabrasion costs

Question 4

Microdermabrasion before and after pictures

Accepted Answer

The microdermabrasion photos in our gallery have been shared by the provider who performed the procedure, with the patient's consent.

Question 5

Who's a good candidate?

Accepted Answer

Most people are good candidates for a microdermabrasion facial.

However, it can aggregate sensitive skin, so again, it isn’t a good choice for patients who have:

rosacea
eczema
psoriasis
active cystic acne

If you’ve recently had a facial laser treatment or completed an isotretinoin regimen (or are still on it), it’s wise to hold off on microdermabrasion for a few months.

Finally, skip microdermabrasion if you’re pregnant; it can be too irritating and lead to breakouts.

Question 6

How do you prepare for a microdermabrasion facial?

Accepted Answer

To ensure your skin is prepped for the treatment:

Don’t use Retin-A or exfoliators for three days prior
Avoid sun tanning or using tanning creams or sprays during the week beforehand.
Wait two to three weeks after getting injectables (including fillers and neurotoxins).
Refrain from waxing or tanning the treatment area for a few weeks prior to microdermabrasion.
Wash your face and neck with a non-oily, soap-free cleanser before your treatment.
If you get red welts or hives when scratched (called dermatographism), you may have a similar reaction after microdermabrasion. Take an oral histamine before your appointment to alleviate it.

Question 7

How does microdermabrasion work?

Accepted Answer

Before your aesthetician or provider begins the microdermabrasion session, they’ll cleanse and steam your face, to soften skin and open up the pores. Then, working counterclockwise, they’ll begin the exfoliating process with their handheld device of choice.

There are two methods: crystal microdermabrasion and diamond microdermabrasion. Both range from 20 minutes (for the quickest facial) to an hour (if the treatment includes your face, neck, and chest).

With crystal microdermabrasion, fine crystals, typically made of aluminum oxide, are sprayed over the skin. Because the system is on a closed loop, the crystals and dead skin cells are simultaneously vacuumed into a receptacle in the microdermabrasion device and discarded. To protect your eyes, you’ll need to remove your contact lenses and wear goggles.
Diamond microdermabrasion uses a wand with a diamond-encrusted tip to exfoliate and resurface the skin with each pass. As with crystal microdermabrasion, the particles are vacuumed away with the same wand, but it’s safer for your eyes.

Some doctors believe that the diamond tip reduces the redness and dryness that can occur after the treatment. “I prefer the microdermabrasion diamond hand pieces over the crystals for two reasons,” Dr. Allenby says. “I think the skin can get too dried out from the crystals (which were the original treatments). Less importantly for the outcome, the crystals seemed to end everywhere, and patients felt too ‘gritty,’ even outside of the treatment zones.”

Afterward, any excess crystals or residue will be removed with a warm towel, and your provider will apply a moisturizer and sunscreen.

Question 8

Does microdermabrasion hurt?

Accepted Answer

Microdermabrasion should not hurt or require anesthesia of any kind, if it’s performed appropriately. This is a gentler and less invasive procedure than traditional dermabrasion, which exfoliates at a deeper level.

With this more mild form of abrasion, you’ll likely feel only a slightly gritty sanding sensation, which some compare to being licked by a cat’s tongue. Your skin may feel a little itchy or tingly, but you’ll quickly acclimate to the sensation.

Microdermabrasion providers can easily adjust their pressure and speed settings to suit your skin and pain tolerance, so speak up if it feels uncomfortable.

Question 9

What does aftercare involve?

Accepted Answer

There’s no real recovery time needed after microdermabrasion. However, it’s normal for skin to be dry and tight following the procedure, and some people say their skin was flushed pink. These side effects should subside over the next day, with the use of a gentle cleanser and moisturizer.

To get the maximum effect of the treatment, avoid anything that overheats your body—including showers, a sauna, steam rooms, and exercise—for the first 24 hours.

You can somewhat resume your regular skin-care routine after 48 hours, but you should avoid topical anti-aging, exfoliating, or anti-acne products that contain salicylic acid, AHA/BHA acids, retinols, vitamin C, or benzoyl peroxide, for seven days due to prevent possible irritation.

In the next few weeks, your new skin may be more sensitive to sun exposure, so it’s important to use a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher and practice smart sun protection (think: hats, sun shields, shade).

Question 10

Is microdermabrasion safe?

Accepted Answer

A 2016 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that microdermabrasion is safe, with benefits that include increased collagen density.

“Microdermabrasion is a safe procedure at any age. But, like most procedures, the experience of the person doing the microdermabrasion is the key to getting a good result with few adverse reactions,” explains Dr. Mitchell Schwartz, a dermatologic surgeon in South Burlington, Vermont.

A few caveats:

People with very sensitive or thin skin might notice light bruising, scabbing, or flaking, but there isn’t any evidence of long-term damage in these cases.
The crystals used are also considered safe and are nontoxic if accidentally ingested, though they can be irritating to the lungs.
Goggles will help protect your eyes.

The biggest risks would stem from an unsanitary environment or inexperience. Your aesthetician or provider should always wear gloves and use sterilized tools. Read consumer reviews and check before and after photos prior to booking an appointment—and steer clear of anyone who has injured or over-exfoliated their clients.

Question 11

How often should you get microdermabrasion?

Accepted Answer

Aestheticians usually recommend monthly sessions, since your skin cells naturally turn over every 28 days or so.

That said, the ideal time table for this treatment will vary based on your age (cell turnover slows over time), skin sensitivity, goals, and skin care regimen. You also have to factor in any other procedures you may routinely have done at the derm’s office, especially if they’re resurfacing in nature.

Some people get weekly microdermabrasion sessions, as part of a series, in the initial phase of treatment, and then return for occasional maintenance treatments a few times a year. Others view microdermabrasion as a great seasonal fix, since it buffs away dry, flaky skin on the heels of winter as well as sun-damaged cells after a summer spent outdoors.

Question 12

Can you do microdermabrasion at home?

Accepted Answer

The results of most at-home microdermabrasion devices won’t match those you’d get from a professional, but they can still improve your skin over time. “We like to tell patients that home devices are good and work even better in combination with a good skin-care routine from a board-certified dermatologist or plastic surgeon’s office,” says Dr. Michael Gold, a dermatologic surgeon in Nashville.

“We often recommend that the microdermabrasion procedure start in the office, and then it can be finished and maintained in your home. Most dermatologists know of several good home devices, and we do make them available as adjuncts to what we do in our office.”

Though rare, there are risks that come with using a device at home, also typically due to sanitization. One study reported that a woman developed a bacterial abscess from her home device. Following the cleaning instructions is essential to avoid side effects of microdermabrasion at home.

Question 13

What are the alternatives to microdermabrasion?

Accepted Answer

HydraFacial has been gaining a reputation as a more effective exfoliation treatment, with gentler ingredients. The procedure includes a type of microdermabrasion, and it also opens pores, vacuums extractions, and infuses skin with a customized blend of serums. Dr. Allenby says that she regularly gets HydraFacials herself. “Part of the treatment incorporates microdermabrasion using either a regular tip or a more aggressive wet diamond tip. I like having this done because I can add or subtract growth factors, peels, and hydration.”

For more dramatic results, consider a chemical peel.

If you have pronounced acne scars or wrinkles, Dr. Paul recommends microneedling or laser resurfacing. “Microneedling and laser resurfacing are much better uses of your money for improving acne scarring and stimulating collagen,” says Dr. Paul. “If you have dark skin, be very cautious with laser treatments, to avoid post-treatment inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Microneedling is often a safer avenue.”

Question 14

Sources & studies

Accepted Answer

Shah M, Crane JS. Microdermabrasion. [Updated 2023 Jun 28]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2023 Jan.

American Osteopathic College of Dermatology, (AOCD). “DERMATOGRAPHISM.” Dermatographism - American Osteopathic College of Dermatology (AOCD), 2020.

Abd-Elazim, Nagwa E, et al. “Microdermabrasion and Topical Tacrolimus: A Novel Combination Therapy of Vitiligo.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, U.S. National Library of Medicine, 30 Oct. 2019.

El-Domyati, Moetaz, et al. “Microdermabrasion: a Clinical, Histometric, and Histopathologic Study.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, U.S. National Library of Medicine, Dec. 2016.

Grubbs, Justin, and Casey Bowen. “Mycobacterium Abscessus Infection Following Home Dermabrasion.” Cutis, U.S. National Library of Medicine, July 2019.

Shah, Muneeb. “Microdermabrasion.” StatPearls [Internet]., U.S. National Library of Medicine, 13 Jan. 2020.

MICRODERMABRASION

Janet Allenby, DO

Jolene Edgar

Janet Allenby, DO

Jolene Edgar

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	HydraFacial nonsurgical	Chemical Peel nonsurgical	Microneedling nonsurgical	Laser Resurfacing nonsurgical
Worth It Rating	96%	85%	85%	90%
Average Cost	$206	$438	$904	$2810
Downtime	No downtime	Up to 2 weeks of downtime	1–3 days of downtime	1–12 days of downtime (depending on intensity)
Anesthesia	No anesthesia	No anesthesia	Topical anesthesia	Topical anesthesia

Janet Allenby, DO

Jolene Edgar

Janet Allenby, DO

Jolene Edgar

MICRODERMABRASION QUESTIONS

3 days post op microderm, today I was cleaning w/ the window open & now I have a red patch on my cheek & intense burning.(photo)

I'd like to minimize pore size & wondering if microdermabrasion along with Obagi is the way to go? Going in for lesion removal.

What type of birthmark is this, and is removal possible? (Photo)

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