The societal pursuit of perfectly pillowy lips has been ongoing for decades—more than a century, actually. In fact, women have been using lipstick to enhance the appearance of their lips since the 1800s. However, now that we’re in the 21st century, lipstick is no longer the only way to create a more shapely mouth. From surgical solutions that last years to lip glosses specifically formulated to create a quick boost, there are more options for achieving a fuller lip look out there than you may think. Here, the experts break down exactly what you need to know about how to get plump lips.
Lip plumping products
Sometimes the solution for plumper lips can be found in the aisles of Sephora. “Lip products containing hydrating ingredients, like hyaluronic acid—a natural sugar found in the skin—absorb water and may give a fuller lip temporarily,” says New York City board-certified dermatologist Dr. Y. Claire Chang. “Other ingredients, like menthol, cinnamon, capsaicin, or wintergreen, can create irritation and inflammation in the skin to create a temporarily volumized look too.” Hyaluronic acid–based lip products, like PCA Skin Hyaluronic Acid Lip Booster ($45), and spicier products, like Too Faced Lip Injection Lip Plumping Gloss ($23), are two great options if you’re looking for a quick boost.
How to plump lips with satin lipsticks, glosses and lip liners
Before applying any lipstick, Mari Shten, a celebrity makeup artist and the founder of Mari Shten Beauty, recommends exfoliating your lips—it’s a game changer when it comes to faking a more plush pout. “If the lips are dry, exfoliate them for at least five minutes first. I use Fresh Sugar Lip Polish Exfoliator [$24],” she says. “Then apply a [hydrating] lip balm.”
Once lips have been properly exfoliated and moisturized, blot any excess lip balm and use a touch of concealer to blur the lip contour so you can create a new, expanded lip shape using liner. “Using a lip pencil, overdraw the lips just slightly—concentrate on the upper lip and go just [above] your natural lip line,” says Shten. “For the bottom lip, overdraw only the sides of the lip and not the middle part.” Shten likes to use Charlotte Tilbury Lip Cheat Lip Liners ($22) because they are soft, with a velvety texture, and come in the “perfect neutral colors to overdraw the lips.”
Once lip liner has been applied, it’s time to add lipstick. Choose a darker tone for the sides of the lips and a slightly lighter tone for the middle. To make the lips look extra full, use lip gloss on top of your lipstick: it will reflect the light, making the lips look fuller. “I like to apply lip gloss at the cupid’s bow and upper lip line, to make the lips look even [larger].”
Pro tip: When choosing lipstick, opt for satiny and oily formulas because they make the lips look healthier and plumper. “Only use drying, matte lipsticks if your lips are in perfect condition, otherwise they will look dry [and shriveled],” warns Shten, adding that a good, satiny lipstick option is the Laura Mercier Rouge Essentiel Silky Crème Lipsticks ($32). “They [come in] beautiful, moisturizing colors with a satin finish,” she says. “And for the gloss, I choose Chanel Rouge Coco Gloss [$30], a nonsticky, ultralight formula with coconut oil and vitamin E that leaves lips visibly smooth and plump and gives the lips light color and the perfect shine.”
Related: How to Make Your Lip Filler Results Last As Long as Possible
Lip injections
One of the most popular noninvasive ways to plump lips is hyaluronic lip fillers, which have a 97% Worth It Rating on RealSelf. “Fuller lips can be achieved immediately, with in-office filler treatments,” affirms Dr. Chang. “I use hyaluronic acid fillers to shape, plump, and support the lips in patients who want a fuller [appearance].” According to Dr. Chang, lip fillers can be injected into the body of the lip, to improve plumpness; in the lip lining, to enhance the lip border; by the perioral fine lines, to decrease wrinkles; and around the edges, to lift the corners and improve a downturned lip.
Since the lips are very sensitive, providers typically use topical numbing prior to filler treatment. “Depending on the areas treated and amount of volume desired, I typically use one-half to two syringes of hyaluronic acid filler for the lips,” says Dr. Chang. “Patients can expect bruising, swelling, and soreness after treatment, and it can take up to two weeks for lip filler to settle in completely.” The filler can last anywhere from 3 to 12 months and costs an average of $775.
How to get fuller lips with lip implants
For those looking for a more permanent alternative to lip fillers, lip implants are often a good option. “Lip implants can be done with various materials, usually silicone,” explains New York City board-certified facial plastic surgeon Dr. Gary Linkov. “An incision is made in each corner of the mouth, called the oral commissure, and a tunnel in the lip is created [where] the implant is pulled through.” The whole process takes about an hour, and the patient is given a local anesthetic to numb the entire area so that there’s very little pain involved. “A good candidate is someone with a thin red lip, upper or lower, who desires a more permanent solution compared to fillers,” adds Dr. Linkov.
Post-procedure, your lips will look a little swollen and may have some bruising (final results won’t settle in for about a month). Doctors typically recommend sleeping on your back, with your head elevated, for a few days after the procedure as well as applying cool compresses to the area, to help with the swelling. Bleeding and infection are a small but possible risk post-procedure.
While lip implants are more expensive than lip fillers—they cost an average of $2,500—they may be more cost effective for some, since it’s a permanent solution and doesn’t require routine touch-ups.
Lip lift
Another permanent solution for larger lips, a lip lift—which has an average cost of $3,275 and takes about an hour to complete—is a surgical procedure performed under local anesthesia that shortens the philtrum, aka the distance between your top lip and your nose. “[This procedure] involves lifting the upper lip by making an incision at the base of the nose and removing a segment of skin,” says Dr. Linkov. “By removing the skin, it allows the upper red lip to flip out more and appear bigger.” According to Dr. Linkov, a good candidate for this procedure is someone with a long philtrum, no upper dental show, and a thin upper lip.
Unlike fillers, a lip lift won’t create bulk to the lip area (since nothing is being inserted) and it doesn’t require regular touch-up appointments. There is a small scar post-surgery, but it’s well hidden in the shadow under the nose. The incision area may be red, swollen, or bruised for about 10 days after the procedure, but the appearance will improve drastically in the weeks following, with full recovery at about three months. Similar to lip implants, there’s a risk of bleeding or infection after going under the knife, so be sure to follow your doctor’s post-op instructions carefully, to avoid any adverse reactions.
Revision lip lifts are sometimes needed years after the original has been performed, due to the philtrum elongating as the patient ages and loses skin elasticity. While not all patients undergo a revision, it’s still something to consider before opting for a lip lift in the first place.
Related: Can Lip Flips Be a Better Option Than Filler?
Fat grafting for lips
Surgically inserting your own tissue into your lips, instead of filler or silicone implants, is another option for lip plumping. “Fat grafting is one type of autologous lip augmentation and is performed under local anesthesia,” explains Dr. Linkov. “Fat is harvested—typically, from the abdomen or thigh—purified, and transferred to the [upper and/or lower] lips.” This process uses a technique similar to liposuction by removing fat, via cannula, from a chosen area on the patient’s body. Then it’s put through a purification process where it is spun in a centrifuge, to remove impurities. The purified fat is finally transferred into a syringe, and the fat is injected into the patient’s lips.
While this is another permanent solution to plumping the lip area (costing about $5,050), there are a few caveats. First, it’s impossible to know how much of the fat will resorb into the body and how much will remain permanently in the injected area—therefore, results can be unpredictable. Many surgeons will overfill the area, knowing that a large portion of fat cells will die off in the first three months. So results aren’t truly finalized until about nine months post-surgery. The two-hour procedure also has a recovery period of about a week and involves swelling, bruising, and tenderness in the area. While rare, hematoma, fat embolism, scarring, and in some scarce cases, facial fat necrosis are possible complications.
It’s important to note, however, that there is a major perk to opting for fat grafting over other lip plumping options: the stem cells present in the injected fat can provide ongoing facial rejuvenation. So not only will your lips look plumper, but they’ll also appear more youthful (think: fewer lip lines). Talk about a win-win.
