It’s been almost five years since Kylie Jenner admitted to getting a little help with her lips (after much gossip and speculation), which ushered in lip injections as a major trend. In the years that followed, lip augmentation procedures, other than injectables, have also gained popularity. It seems like everywhere you look, whether it’s on your Instagram feed or favorite TV show, you’ll see plumped-up, poutier lips that were definitely not there before. Some procedures can be fairly obvious, while others take a more subtle approach.
As the trend has grown, so have innovations and options, aside from dermal fillers, for giving your lips a fuller appearance. One alternative, dubbed the “lip flip,” doesn’t require fillers but instead uses Botox above the upper lip to alter the mouth shape. However, the results of lip fillers and the Botox lip flip technique are completely different from each other. To find out if a lip flip vs. filler is better for you, read on.
How do lip fillers work?
Traditionally, various hyaluronic acid–based fillers, which include brands like Juvéderm, Restylane, and Belotero, are used to enhance the lips. The purpose of these fillers is usually to restore volume loss that happens with age or to make genetically thin lips look bigger. According to Dr. Oren Tepper, a board-certified plastic surgeon in New York City, “In the transition between your lip and your skin, there is a small area of elevation called the white roll. As you age, this elevation begins to flatten, and restoring this architecture can promote a more youthful look.” He also describes the area between the nose and the lips where there are two columns, called philtral columns. “Filler can be used to highlight this as well, causing a central depression, which is aesthetically desirable,” he explains.
Related: Why You Get Swelling After Lip & Cheek Fillers—and How to Reduce It
What is a lip flip?
The lip flip is a completely different type of procedure and uses a neuromodulator rather than filler. As Dr. Tepper describes it, Botox is injected into the muscles surrounding the mouth, relaxing them enough so the lips are able to flip outward. So instead of actually adding volume to the upper lip with filler, injecting Botox by the Cupid’s bow and lip line paralyzes the surrounding muscles, which subsequently gives the appearance of fuller lips. It’s more of a trick of the eye, so to speak.
According to the American Journal of Orthodontics and Dentofacial Orthopedics, a Botox lip flip can also help treat a gummy smile. Another study from the Dental Research Journal called it “an innovative and effective way” to improve the gummy smile that is easy and cost-efficient compared to other surgical procedures.
Who should get a lip flip?
Since the results are vastly different, the decision to get a Botox lip flip vs. fillers is determined by the patient’s desired end game. If you’ve been fantasizing about Angelina Jolie–style plumping, you’ll probably want to go the dermal filler route. If you’re looking for a more subtle pout, the lip flip might be more your speed. “It really depends on the patient and their mouth,” Dr. Ava Shamban, a board-certified dermatologic surgeon in Beverly Hills, California, says, adding that most people tend to lean toward a fuller look, which is achieved with filler. She also points out that some patients might do well with one over the other, while others might do better with both, which is another option to consider. When combined, Botox helps to create an overall flipped lip shape while filler provides added volume. “Botox and fillers have different indications,” Dr. Misbah Khan, a board-certified dermatologic surgeon in New York City, adds. “One does not replace the other, but one can complement the other.” She also points out that it ultimately depends on the physician’s evaluation of the patient to see whether they’re a better candidate for the lip flip or filler.
How much does a lip flip cost?
A Botox lip flip can cost around $200, which is considerably less expensive than lip filler, which costs about $800. However, prices can differ, depending on numerous factors—like how many units of Botox are required or where you live. But remember, you won’t get the same results. When it comes down to it, the more lip volume you want, the more cash you’ll have to drop on the cosmetic procedure.
Related: How to Make Your Lip Filler Results Last As Long as Possible
How long does a lip flip last?
According to Dr, Shamban, Botox can last around three months, while fillers tend to last much longer—about 6 to 18 months. So if you’re noncommittal when it comes to your lip-enhanced makeover, the lip flip might be a better option. You should also keep potential bruising in mind, which is one of the side effects of dermal fillers. “With Botox, there’s usually less bruising than with fillers, which can be important to some,” Dr. Tepper says. However, some people who have gotten the lip flip procedure, such as beauty vlogger Amea May, say the Botox can make your lips feel strange for a week or two, and that simple, everyday actions, like drinking out of a water bottle or putting on lipstick, can feel awkward. Whichever procedure you choose, give yourself 10 to 14 days to see full results, as Botox takes time to kick in and filler always swells to some degree.
Other types of lip augmentation
There are many options for altering the look of your lips. Within the filler category, there are different techniques like the Korean lift edge filler, which is becoming more popular. And then there’s the Plasma Pen lip flip, which uses the fibroblasting method to shorten the space above between the nose and top lip and lift the lip. “LipLase is also a great alternative,” Dr. Shamban adds. “It is a noninvasive laser lip treatment that helps give a fuller, more natural appearance through the use of laser energy.” On the surgical side, a lip lift removes a tiny strip of skin under the nose to raise the top lip, giving it a fuller look permanently without the need for ongoing maintenance.
Bottom line
To decide whether a Botox lip flip or lip fillers are better for you, ask yourself what you really want your lips to look like and how much additional volume you’re hoping for. “Certain people are concerned about making their lips look too big, so they shy away from fillers,” Dr. Tepper says. If that resonates with you but you still want to add a little bit of pow! to your pucker, the lip flip might be worth a shot.
