Considering how little real estate they take up, there sure are a lot of treatments out there targeted solely at improving the brows. Gels, pencils, pomades, at-home tints, professional tints, brow hair transplants, and microblading are all widely available and effective options, depending on your specific concern and how much you’re willing to pay. But believe it or not, yet another treatment has just popped up in the United States, by way of Russia: brow lamination.
Unlike microblading—one of the most popular treatments for thicker-looking brows but not without its downsides—brow lamination tackles thinning brow hairs without the use of a needle. “Big brows are a consistent trend we’re seeing, and this is the perfect treatment for creating the full and feathered brow look that our customers have been requesting,” says Jaimineey Patel, head of training at BBB London. Here, we break down exactly what brow lamination is and how it differs from the other options on the market.
What is brow lamination?
Essentially a perm for your eyebrows, brow lamination helps to redirect your brow hairs so that you get the most fullness out of your natural growth. According to Patel, the brow-sculpting treatment is a four-step process. “First, a brow adhesive is used to secure the brow hairs in an upward direction,” says Patel. “A styling lotion is then used to relax the hair cuticle so the brow hairs are molded to the determined brow shape.” The styling lotion contains thioglycolate, a chemical that opens the hair cuticle and enters the cortex (aka the thickest hair layer) and makes the hair easier to mold into a new shape. “A fixing lotion then follows, to structure the brow hairs and set them into the new position,” says Patel. The fixing lotion contains hydrogen peroxide, which introduces oxygen to the hair structure and stabilizes the hair in the new shape. “Last, a nurturing keratin serum is combed through the brows, to help hydrate and condition the hairs.”
How should you prepare for brow lamination?
Brow lamination works best on untouched brow hairs, but using gentle products around the area will not compromise the treatment. However, according to Patel, if you’re having a tint and shape as part of the treatment, it is best to take precautions if you have sensitive skin. “Avoid stringent exfoliators and chemicals—and use natural products to gently cleanse so the skin is not exposed to sensitivity during the treatment,” she says.
How is brow lamination different from microblading?
Brow lamination can give similar results to microblading, which is one of its main competitor treatments, but in a noninvasive way. “Microblading can be painful, as pigment is inserted into the skin using a microblade,” says Patel. “Brow lamination works solely with the hairs to lift and redirect, giving the illusion of thickness—gaps can be hidden, and unruly, coarse brows are smoothed.”
Brow lamination results don’t last nearly as long as those from microblading, and the price tag reflects that. “The results of brow lamination are more short-term—six to eight weeks—versus microblading, which can last from 6 to 18 months,” says Michelle Wu, master therapist at EverTrue Microblading in New York City and Chicago. Microblading costs an average of $425 and can take hours to do, unlike brow lamination, which ranges from $50 to $85 and takes just 45 minutes to an hour.
For brows with extra star power, Patel suggests getting brow lamination and brow tinting together. Brow tinting adjusts the color of hair, while brow lamination focuses on the direction of hairs. “Brow lamination also creates a glossy, shiny effect that can be very striking,” she says. “It has the most impactful results when combined with a brow tint, as both treatments work to offer a fuller, thicker brow.”
How should you care for your brows post-treatment?
To get the longest wear out of your shaped brows, it’s best to avoid getting them wet for the first 24 hours. “Avoid rubbing the eye area and applying harsh cleansers or exfoliators,” says Clementina Richardson, celebrity lash expert and founder of Envious Lashes.
What are the downsides and risks?
If you have sensitive skin and/or eyes, you should be wary of irritation from the solution. It’s always a good idea to bring the full ingredients list to your eye doctor and get approval from them first. Patel says that BBB London requires a patch test to be done at least 48 hours prior to the treatment, to ensure that the skin won’t have a negative reaction. Additionally, the chemical solution applied to set the brows can possibly damage fragile brow hairs, especially if the treatment is done multiple times. In order to prevent damage from the treatment as well as strengthen hairs, Richardson suggests applying a conditioning serum to your brows post-treatment, to hold your desired look in place and help grow and strengthen your brows.
Where can you get brow lamination performed?
You can start to find this type of service in lash-extension and brow salons, but Richardson says that safety should be your number one concern. “Finding someone who is licensed [in cosmetology or aesthetics] to do brow lamination is a must, so do your homework and don’t go for the cheapest price.”
