For those with thin, sparse, or uneven brows, microblading—a semipermanent tattooing technique—can seem like a godsent treatment. But there are a surprising number of ways microblading can go wrong, from overdone stokes and excessive pressure to the formation of scar tissue and the appearance of red and blue pigment. “Microblading is great if it’s done correctly and by someone who knows what they’re doing … if it’s not, it can go very wrong,” says Piret Aava, the expert behind The Eyebrow Doctor, which has outposts in New York City, Westchester County, New York, Miami, and Los Angeles. It can be difficult to predict how the finished product will look before going under the needle—but as with most things, there are various red flags to look out for in order to avoid a botched microblading result.
Examine fully healed “after” photos
Given the visual nature of microblading, checking out before and after photos of an artist’s work is a wise move; but often, seeing these isn’t enough. “When you look at someone’s photos, you want to look for healed work,” explains Niki Metz, a Los Angeles–based microblading artist and owner of Studio Néos. “You want to see the retention. There’s a fine line between permanent and semipermanent, and that fine line is the pressure of the technician’s hand. You have to look at the healed photos to see this difference.” This is because while nearly all microblading looks good immediately after the treatment, as the area heals, each stroke expands. “If you make a lot of strokes really close to each other, they’re going to blur together when they heal, and you’ll have a solid eyebrow,” Aava says.
More pressure also leads to longer-lasting results, which may seem like a good thing, but this often means that the brows turn blue or red after a few years. “Every pigment has many colors in it—green, yellow, red, black—and altogether, they make a color called brown,” Aava explains. “There are different tones of brown—some are cooler, some are warmer, some have more red, some have more yellow—but ultimately, your body metabolizes and gets rid of certain pigments faster than others.” In order to avoid lingering red or blue pigments, she says, it’s best to take it slow. “I like starting more conservatively with the strokes and choosing a color that might be a bit lighter than necessary, because we can always add more in a darker color, to give it more dimension.”
Inquire about your artist’s training
“I think what’s happening is, we’ve seen an influx in microblading—but you have to realize, you’re not actually required to get certain hours to be a microblading artist,” explains Metz. In most states, obtaining a microblading license is as easy as taking a three-hour course and a written test, and artists are never required to perform the treatment before being certified. Metz started an apprentice program at her studio that requires 40 hours of training; you can find similar ones springing up across the country as a means for new artists to properly learn the trade, and most of these result in a certificate stating the apprentice’s completion. Asking your artist not only about their previous work with clients but also about any apprenticeship-like training they have undergone is a simple and reliable way to make sure your eyebrows are in the very best of hands.
Align on your microblading goals with your provider
It’s of the utmost importance that you and your microblading artist are on the same page. In addition to liking their general style and trusting their expertise, you should always discuss your goals for the treatment and acknowledge what you’re signing up for. “Since the process is long-lasting, it is important that your aesthetician’s style is in line with what you are looking for,” says Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. “If the size, shape, or placement of the microblade strokes is not what you like, you are, unfortunately, stuck with it for several months.”
In order to achieve the best possible understanding, make sure your artist sketches your eyebrows beforehand, to see the shape and look. “I always fill in the brows with pencil before I do anything, just to sketch out the shape of it to make sure you’re happy with it,” Aava says. “Nobody should just freehand it, ever. You want to make sure you’re in agreement and you’re both happy with the pencil drawing.” And if you’re not certain about doing your brows or don’t have a good reason for microblading, it’s best to skip the procedure altogether to avoid a bad result.
Ask how microblading tools are sterilized
Of course, even with every precaution, microblading can still go wrong. “The biggest risks are potential skin irritation, allergic reactions, and infections,” says Dr. Zeichner. Redness, warmth, swelling, and significant tenderness in the two days following the treatment can be indications of an allergic reaction or infection, and in the event that this happens, it is imperative that you contact a medical doctor. Easy methods to avoid this, Dr. Zeichner says, include thoroughly cleansing skin before microblading and confirming that your artist is using sterilized instruments and tools and is working in a clean environment.
Know your options, if you’re not satisfied
All treatable issues and infections aside, “the biggest problem with microblading is not being satisfied with the result,” says Joey Healy, a New York City brow expert who remains skeptical of the tattoo-like process. If you don’t like your new brows, you have a few options. “You can wait it out. People like to say that microblading is really semipermanent, but in fact, the color hangs around for a long time. If you wait for years and years, it can soften to a place that works for you, and you can use a little bit of concealer to help as it continues to soften,” notes Healy.
More proactive approaches to botched microblading removal tend to be in the laser and saline solution realms, but there is some disagreement over which is better. Metz, who thinks laser removal can run the risk of ruining the hair follicle, is a fan of saline removal. The process is similar to tattooing, only instead of ink, the provider is implanting the saline solution into the skin with a tattoo gun. “You usually need two to three sessions to get it to dissolve between 30% and 60%, and then from there, I can go in and create a new brow,” Metz says. Aava also recommends immediately washing or scrubbing your brows with a saltwater or saline paste, if you’re unhappy with the result. “Basically, do all the things you’re told not to do,” she says.
The bottom line
Like many beauty treatments, microblading can be seriously life-changing, but it also comes with many risks and can be easily botched. Even when done correctly, it’s always a slight gamble to see how your body will heal and process the dye over time. “There are so many different variables that feed into this,” warns Metz, noting that aging, the changing of face shape, and even exposure to sunlight can interfere with microblading results. The brow method is truly a process; you, as the client, must have a relationship with your artist over time as both of you learn what works and doesn’t work for you. Microblading, in the best circumstances and when done responsibly, can last up to a couple of years, but it is by no means a permanent solution—and that might just be a blessing in disguise.
