The Ultimate Guide to Better Brows—From Tints to Tattoos

Brow pencil, microblading, brow lift, or eyebrow transplant—which is your way to bold brows? We break it down in our ultimate guide to better brows.

As much as we’d love to strut around town with some serious power brows, unfortunately not everyone has a pair of naturally full, thick eyebrows to flaunt. Whether it’s genetics or a past of overzealous plucking that’s to blame for our rather sparse brows, many of us are looking to boost those face framers—and the proof lies in the numbers. While sales of eye shadow, eyeliner and mascara may have rapidly declined in 2018, eyebrow products saw a steep growth within the eye-enhancement market, according to a Nielsen study

Clearly, bold brows aren’t going anywhere, so if you’re aiming for thicker eyebrows but aren’t sure where to look, don’t sweat it—we’ve rounded up the seven best products and procedures experts recommend for your boldest brows yet.

Brow pencil and powder

Brow pencils and powders have been around for decades, to help line, define and fill in sparse brows. Makeup artist Meredith Baraf is “obsessed with all of Kelly Baker Brows products” but especially loves “the Brow Defining Pencil ($22) because it’s so easy to use and the Camo-Light Highlighter Pencil ($22) because it hides any flaws or imperfections and helps create a precise line to add lift,” she says. 

Choosing which type of product to use depends on your experience and shape preference. “For a beginner, I recommend powder because it makes for a very natural, easy fill,” says brow expert Joey Healy. “If you like your brows to have a little more definition, a pencil can be a wonderful option.” 

Healy is also a fan of layering, and so are many of his clients. “Pencil and powder can also be layered on top of one another,” he says. “Some people like to use powder for 80% of their brow fill and a little pencil for that last 20%.” 

When filling in brows with a pencil, use short, dash-like strokes to mimic your hairs and try to focus on the sparser areas that actually need to be filled rather than running the product across your entire eyebrow. Use a brush, like the Joey Healy Duo Brow Brush ($28), to apply powder in an upward flicking motion.     

Brow pomade

Pomades are thicker in consistency than pencils and powders and can offer both color and hold. Anastasia Beverly Hills Dipbrow Pomade ($18) is a popular option for adding a natural-looking tint to the brows, while Maybelline TattooStudio Brow Pomade Eyebrow Makeup ($13) is a more affordable choice. 

Baraf also loves a clear brow pomade to help keep hairs in place after you’ve filled with pencil or powder; she prefers the Surratt Beauty Expressioniste Brow Pomade ($30). “This product is so major,” she says. “This colorless, reworkable wax lifts, shapes and gives hold with no crunchiness, and I love that it’s distributed by a brush.” 

While pomades are less likely to create an “overdone” look when used on the brows, they can get a bit messy. The trick with pomades is to make sure that you have your eyebrows shaped and trimmed and to drag the brush slowly across your brows. Pomade is ideal for those who want more natural-looking, bushy brows. 

Related: The Dos and Don’ts of Tipping for Aesthetic Treatments

Brow serum

There are multiple eyebrow growth serums on the market, but neuLASH neuBROW Brow Enhancing Serum ($100) is makeup artist Tanya Deemer’s favorite. “I love the protein complex formulation, and I saw results quickly—within three weeks or so,” she says. The formula also contains biotin, a B vitamin that benefits hair, skin and nails, to help strengthen and protect existing eyebrow hairs. To use, simply apply the serum along the browline, day and night, for several weeks. Allow to dry before adding makeup products to your brows.

Although there are many formulations on the market, only minoxidil (found in hair-growth shampoos like Rogaine) and bimatoprost (the active ingredient in Latisse for eyelashes) have been specifically proven to help boost hair growth. Other brow-growth serums contain peptides, oils and/or vitamins that may help strengthen and condition existing brows, but they likely won’t do much for new hair growth. 

Brow tint

If you’re looking for longer-lasting results or have a lighter hair color, a brow tint might be a good option for you. Eyebrow tinting is a treatment that uses semi permanent dye to help define and emphasize eyebrows, using a shade darker than your natural hair color. 

The process is painless, takes about 15–30 minutes, and costs anywhere between $10 and $75. Avoid getting your eyebrows wet for 12 hours after the treatment is done. Also be advised that eyebrow-tinting dyes are not FDA-approved and it’s even illegal in California for licensed professionals or salons to administer eyebrow dyes to their clients. Since skin along the eye area is thinner than in other areas, there’s a higher risk of an allergic reaction or irritation occuring post-tinting. So be sure to do your research before booking an appointment.

Microblading

Microblading is a semi permanent tattoo technique that lasts between one and three years and helps to create the illusion of fuller, thicker brows by applying short strokes of color, perfectly matching your natural hair color. The process usually takes between 30 and 40 minutes, and if numbing cream is applied, you most likely won’t feel much pain during your treatment.

Microblading is an attractive option for those looking for longer-lasting results, but the price tag may not be as inviting. The average price of this treatment is around $425 but can go up to $700 or more, depending on where you get it done and how full you want your brows to look. There are risks associated with microblading, including possible swelling, redness and infection. Many RealSelf users, however, report an uneven finish and issues with technician technique more commonly than infection. “My eyebrows are dark and HUGE, and one brow looks bigger and farther up than the other one,” recounts one reviewer, with another saying her brow arc “looks strange” and that “the shape is very bad.” So remember not only to research your provider’s credentials before the appointment but also review their before and after pictures of previous clients. 

Brow lift

A brow lift is a surgical procedure that elevates and rejuvenates the shape of the eyebrow by repositioning them in a way that makes them look lifted and less saggy. “There are multiple options for achieving this goal [such as the] direct excision of skin above the brow area,” says Dr. Wilfred Brown, a plastic surgeon in New York City. Another option includes “variations of the coronal brow lift, which involves the excision of a strip of hair-bearing scalp [that] extends from ear to ear, elevating the forehead and brow and then removing redundant scalp.” Essentially, it’s a procedure where a doctor will cut along your hairline (either at the forehead or a few inches behind the forehead, along your scalp) and pull the skin back, to create lifted brows and a smoother forehead.  

The effects of a brow lift can last 10-plus years, and the average cost is more than $7,000. Dr. Brown notes that while brow lifting will not affect the volume of hair in the brow, by changing the position and shape of the brow, an illusion of fuller brows may be created.

Eyebrow transplant

An eyebrow transplant transfers hair from another area of your body—usually from the back of your scalp—onto your eyebrows, for a fuller, thicker-looking shape. After the treatment, hair begins to slowly regrow within two to three months and will fully develop at around the 10- to 12-month mark. Results are permanent, but since hair on your head tends to grow more quickly than eyebrow hair, major maintenance is typically needed to keep unruly strands at bay. 

The average cost of an eyebrow transplant is more than $4,000. The surgery takes about three to four hours and requires at least two days of downtime; bruising, tenderness and scabbing are common post-procedure.