Obagi Nu-Derm: What You Need to Know

The star ingredient of the system is hydroquinone, which blocks the production of tyrosine, the enzyme necessary to make melanin. 

There has been debate about the safety of hydroquinone, and the ingredient is banned in Australia, Japan, and Europe. However, the FDA considers it to be safe and effective and says there’s no evidence that it causes cancer in humans. 

Related: The Controversy Over Hydroquinone, Explained

Obagi Nu-Derm Blender and Obagi Nu-Derm Clear, which are part of the Obagi Nu-Derm System, each contain 4% hydroquinone. A prescription is required for those two products.

However, the full system also includes these products, which don't require a prescription:

• Obagi Nu-Derm Gentle Cleanser, a mild facial cleanser, or Obagi Nu-Derm Foaming Gel, a gel-based cleanser for oily and combination skin
• Obagi Nu-Derm Toner, an alcohol-free toner that balances skin’s natural pH
• Obagi Nu-Derm Exfoderm Forte, an lightweight lotion that exfoliates dead skin with a combo of alpha hydroxy acids, including lactic acid and glycolic acid, and reveals new skin cells
• Obagi Nu-Derm Hydrate facial moisturizer
• Obagi Sun Shield Matte Broad Spectrum SPF 50, a sunscreen that defends against sun damage caused by UVA/UVB rays with zinc oxide. (Sun protection is key for treating skin discoloration and lightening dark spots, as sun exposure is one of the biggest factors in their formation.)

The Obagi Nu-Derm System comes in two versions—one for normal to oily skin and another for normal to dry skin. You can consult your physician to determine which is the right one for your skin type.

“By itself, Obagi Clear is no better than any other hydroquinone,” Dr. Robert Buchanan, a plastic surgeon in Highlands, North Carolina, says in a RealSelf Q&A. “However, when combined with the other ingredients in the Obagi Nu-Derm System, it is two to three times more effective in correcting pigmentary problems than anything else on the market.”

For those concerned about hydroquinone, Obagi offers the Obagi Nu-Derm FX System, which features Obagi Nu-Derm Blend FX and Obagi Nu-Derm Clear FX. Hydroquinone-free versions of the original formulas, they feature arbutin—a powerful skin brightening ingredient in its own right—as the active ingredient, as well as antioxidants and lactic acid.

Pros

• The Obagi Nu-Derm System provides an at-home, topical solution to dark spots and melasma.  
• Hydroquinone, its main ingredient, has been proven effective at reducing hyperpigmentation. 
• Side effects of hydroquinone are usually minimal. They include temporary redness and dryness, which usually resolves as your skin adjusts.
• The system can be tailored to dry or oily skin. 

Cons

• Two key elements of the Obagi Nu-Derm System are available only by prescription.
• Some health professionals have concerns about the safety of hydroquinone.  
• It's a much more cost-effective solution for skin concerns like melasma than other in-office treatments like laser resurfacing or photofacials.

It takes about four weeks for prescription-strength hydroquinone to take full effect. 

The Obagi Nu-Derm System has been tested for safety and efficacy only up to 24 weeks of use. If you don't see an improvement after 12 weeks, the manufacturer recommends discontinuing use. 

At that point, you’ll want to discuss other alternative hyperpigmentation treatments, such as laser treatments, with your dermatologist. 

After you’ve successfully completed the Obagi Nu-Derm System, you can transition to Obagi Nu-Derm Continuum, a skincare maintenance plan you develop with your doctor to maintain your results. 

“I always use the analogy that starting a Nu-Derm kit is similar to starting a rigorous workout routine,” Dr. Denis Gonyon Jr., a plastic surgeon in Johnston, Colorado, says in a RealSelf Q&A. “There is an adjustment period in the beginning that can be hard to push through and stay motivated.” Your provider should have tips on how to ease the transition period.

In rare cases, hydroquinone can cause exogenous ochronosis, which manifests as blue-black pigmentation. This is typically due to long-term application of hydroquinone. For that reason, you should not use the ingredient for more than five months at a time.