Chemical peels have been a popular in-office skin treatment for decades—their role in the beauty world dates back to ancient Egypt—and through all the ebbs and flows, one peel has remained a go-to for nearly 100 years: the Jessner peel. Named for German-American dermatologist Dr. Max Jessner, who created the solution used in the treatment, the peel is widely sought for its impressive ability to improve hyperpigmentation, even out skin tone, smooth fine lines, treat acne, and reduce the appearance of scars. But as with any skin-care treatment, there are a number of factors to consider when determining whether a Jessner peel is right for you and many important things to keep in mind before, during, and after the peel.
1. What is a Jessner peel?
Chemical peels work by applying a high concentration of one or more active ingredients to skin for a short period of time—and the Jessner peel is no exception. “It’s a combination of resorcinol, salicylic acid, lactic acid, and ethanol, which help to break down intercellular connections to help get rid of dead skin cells,” explains Dr. Marisa Garshick, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. “And in some instances, people are using a modified Jessner peel, using trichloroacetic acid instead of resorcinol.” Since a lower concentration of trichloroacetic acid achieves the same depth of peel, this is often done to minimize the chance of any complications, like scarring. Depending on the exact formulation and the number of coats applied, it can range from a light, superficial peel, which causes injury to the epidermis and exfoliates just the outer layer of skin, to a medium-depth peel, which targets the upper layers of the dermis. However, dermatologists more commonly refer to it as a medium-depth peel.
2. What skin concerns does a Jessner peel treat?
Because Jessner peels effectively break the bonds between skin cells, to promote shedding, they can be used to treat a variety of concerns. Thanks to its use of salicylic acid, “the peel can decrease oil production and help heal acne in all skin tones,” says Dr. Hadley King, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. Jessner peels are also used to address melasma, hyperpigmentation, and scarring, but they can also be anti-aging, since they help to induce collagen remodeling and reduce the appearance of fine lines.
3. Who is the ideal candidate for a Jessner peel?
With such a long list of benefits, the Jessner peel offers something for almost everyone—however, certain people will see better results than others. “In general, it is best for those looking to improve hyperpigmentation or photoaging,” Dr. Garshick notes. The peel is great for anyone with oily or acne-prone skin because of its ability to treat acne and lighten hyperpigmentation. “Although at certain depths, it may be considered best for those with lighter skin types, if you go to a trained professional, it can be safely and cautiously used in darker skin tones,” explains Dr. Garshik.
4. How is a Jessner peel applied?
Before a Jessner peel, skin should be properly cleansed, to ensure that the peeling solution penetrates evenly and effectively. “The solution is then gently applied to the skin, generally with a gauze, brush, or cotton-tipped applicator, and repeated coats are applied until a white frost develops,” Dr. King says. The solution is removed after a few minutes. While many other chemical peels require neutralization, the Jessner peel does not; it is normal though for patients to feel a burning or stinging sensation and for skin to redden. It’s recommended that the treated area be kept dry and to avoid the application of water for at least six to eight hours, to see the full benefit of the peel.
5. How many Jessner peels does it take to see results?
“Given that it is [typically done as] a medium-depth peel, you may experience desquamation, or peeling, for up to five days after the peel itself,” Dr. Garshik explains. “But while you can see improvement after one peel, it is often recommended to do four to six peels, to see the most benefit.” In general, these peels should be performed every four to six weeks, depending on a patient’s skin type and the conditions being treated.
6. How does a Jessner peel compare to other chemical peels?
The primary difference between a Jessner peel and its alternatives is that it’s a medium-depth peel. This means that unlike more superficial peels, patients will likely experience redness and light peeling following a Jessner peel, but it also means that the benefits are greater, even with just one application. Stronger peels, which usually involve 25% TCA, penetrate more deeply, but unlike the Jessner peel, they require more downtime and can even include sedation during the application and up to two months of preparation pre-treatment. Additionally, the Jesser peel, as Dr. Garshick says, “can work well for different skin conditions because it is a combination of various acids, making it a very useful peeling solution.” The Jessner peel is usually preferred over other popular chemical peels, like TCA and glycolic acid, for patients who have darker skin tones or who suffer from melasma, since it is milder.
7. How should you prepare for a Jessner peel?
As with any chemical peel, it’s very important for patients to avoid sun exposure before and after a Jessner peel, to minimize the risk of hyperpigmentation, and it can typically be risky to go into a peel with tanned skin. “It is always best to speak with your board-certified dermatologist, as it is often a good idea to avoid any harsh active ingredients that may be irritating to the skin or cause additional sensitivity to the skin, including exfoliating acids such as AHAs or BHAs, retinoids, or benzoyl peroxide,” Dr. Garshik says. “In some specific cases, however, your provider may actually want you to use a retinoid or hydroquinone [a bleaching agent] just prior to the treatment, based on their specific treatment plan, so it is always best to speak with your provider at least two to four weeks prior, to confirm the pre-peel protocol.” Because of the ingredients used in a Jessner peel, the treatment should not be done during pregnancy, and it’s generally wise to avoid sweating or exercise for 24 hours afterward.
8. What can you expect after a Jessner peel?
Jessner peel recovery is pretty simple and straightforward, but there are certain things that patients should keep in mind. “The procedure may cause sun sensitivity, so it is important to use a daily sunscreen with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, SPF 30 or higher,” says Dr. King. “This should be done indefinitely but critically for a month after the peel.” In general, patients can resume their normal skin-care routines approximately one week post-treatment, but it’s always smart to discuss this with your provider, as the timeline may vary, based on your individual skin type and regimen. It’s possible that you might also experience redness and light peeling, so be sure to consider your skin’s reaction when returning to normal products.
