My skin has always been ridiculously soft, relatively clear, and a consistent brown tone that tans golden. I attribute this to my skin-care routine, which I follow religiously; the fact that I am extremely cautious about the products I put on my face; and my adamant personal belief that starting off the day with hot water and lemon makes skin glow from the inside out.
Still, I experience oiliness and get the occasional pimple, usually timed to my menstrual cycle. During the summer months, I also tend to get a slightly uneven skin tone on my face from tanning so easily. And as 2020 takes a new negative turn every day, my skin has reacted to the stress with a level of pimple breakouts I’m not accustomed to. I was hoping to try a laser treatment that would clear up the breakouts and even out my tone.
The provider
Dr. Michelle Henry, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City
My concerns
I didn’t go into Dr. Henry’s office with much knowledge of what lasers would work for my skin, since this was my first laser treatment. And because I am a Black woman with a light to medium complexion (type V on the Fitzpatrick scale), I act cautiously when it comes to skin treatments; I have close family with vitiligo and do not want to do anything that will affect my tone. With Black skin, the right laser is imperative—anything too harsh could cause damage. Fortunately, Dr. Henry is a Black woman herself and has extensive experience treating patients with dark complexions, so I relied on her to pick the right procedure.
My other concern was that I knew I wouldn’t be able to wear a mask for increased protection against COVID-19 during my treatment, but Dr. Henry’s office had precautions in place that helped me feel safe. Office assistants were behind plastic shields, I was required to sign an acknowledgement form that I was not experiencing any symptoms, my temperature was checked before I entered the facility, and Dr. Henry and her entire staff wore masks the entire time.
The treatment
Dr. Henry recommended the Clear + Brilliant laser, since my skin has a tendency to be sensitive and I’m a first-timer when it comes to laser treatments. Clear + Brilliant is a gentle resurfacing treatment that works for all skin tones and tackles wrinkles, sun damage, texture, and the appearance of pores. It creates tiny micro injuries in the top layer of skin, to trigger the healing process and stimulate collagen production while also removing dead skin cells on the surface. Essentially, it delivers deep exfoliation and repair at the same time.
According to Dr. Henry, Clear + Brilliant works best as a series of treatments; she recommends two to four sessions, to see results. “The first treatment is always a bit weaker in skin of color, as we are assessing safety,” she says, noting that it can be used at a higher intensity in subsequent treatments.
What it was like
The entire appointment, from the time I stepped into the office to the time I left, took about an hour. Much of that time was spent waiting for the numbing cream on my face to kick in. After 20 minutes, there was a noticeable numbness, particularly around my mouth.
The laser treatment took about 10 minutes and felt like a baby or a cat was lightly, but constantly, scratching my face. I like to think I have a high tolerance for pain, but I’m confident even the most sensitive patient could handle this gentle laser. Dr. Henry ran the device across my cheeks, forehead, nose, and chin. My eyes were, of course, covered.
Post-treatment, Dr. Henry injected a few of my pimples with cortisone, to help speed up the healing process. She noted that cortisone is an anti-inflammatory medication that helps to reduce the pain, swelling, and redness of a pimple within days. She then used Mesoestetic c.prof 210 depigmentation solution to combat possible hyperpigmentation. The cream slows down melanin production in the skin. To finish, she applied Alastin Regenerating Skin Nectar, a steroid and sunscreen.
Walking out, my face felt tight, noticeably numb, and tingly, and it had a slight burning sensation. All these reactions, I was told, are normal. I was given ice packs, to help the burning sensation. If anything though, the most uncomfortable part of the visit was having my pimples injected.
Recovery
For aftercare, I was given a peptide serum to use once or twice a day for the following three days. I was told to use lots of sunscreen and do my best to avoid the sun (which, with COVID-19 guidelines, was particularly easy). I deviated from my normal skin-care products and simply washed my face each day with CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser, followed by Pond’s Dark Spot Corrector Cream. Since my skin was going through a natural exfoliation process, I was advised not to use any additional exfoliating products.
The day of the treatment, the numbness and burning sensation took an hour or two to die down, but a slight tingling feeling was left behind. The second day, my skin felt rough and sandpapery, which Dr. Henry had warned me about. I was slightly swollen and had some redness near my nose, but none of these side effects were of concern. By the third day, my skin felt softer, with no swelling. New breakouts were coming to the surface, but the pimples that were injected were noticeably smaller and healing.
Dr. Henry says that in some cases, the inflammation of the laser can lead to folliculitis, or inflammation of the follicle. “If this happens, we can often use topical anti-inflammatories or topical antibiotics, like clindamycin lotion, or medications, like doxycycline, to reduce the breakout.” However, I’m inclined to believe that my less-than-ideal diet since the pandemic began is the biggest contributor to my skin’s reaction.
My skin felt like it was back to normal by day six. The pimples that were injected were reduced to small dark spots, a natural healing process for me when I have a pimple. It wasn’t until day seven that I went back to my typical day-to-day skin-care routine of toner, vitamin C, and retinol.
Results
Overall, the greatest benefit to come from the Clear + Brilliant laser treatment was brighter skin tone. I didn’t have much inconsistency in texture to begin with, but my pores do look a bit smaller and there is a noticeable new glow.
The most surprising outcome is that the few freckles I have are more noticeable—almost vibrant—but I don’t mind this at all. I would definitely consider making this a regular treatment in my routine.
