Will Starting Retinol at Age 29 Prevent Lines and Wrinkles?

Retin A is different from Retinol. Retin A is the brand name for tretinoin. Tretinoin is a prescription and  has been demonstrated for many decades now to provide significant benefit in terms of reducing the signs of photoaging such as pigmentation and fine lines. I have patients that have been using retin A for many years and their skin looks great. I recommend this to my patients to start early.

 

 Retinoic Acid  and its sister (or maybe, since it's harsher, I should call brother) Tazarotene are retinoids. Adapalene the third of this trio is a synthetic retinoid. They are more effective in both anti-acne and anti-aging aspects  than Retinol. This is due to the fact that Retinol, found in numerous OTC anti-aging products, requires the skin to convert Retinol to the acid form, Retinoic acid, for it to achieve maximum effectiveness. In this conversion process, there is a loss of potency, perhaps as much as 90%. However, without question the alcohol, Retinol, is milder on the skin and I often recommend it to patients who cannot tolerate a Retinoid. 

   Recently, the Environmental Working Group, has questioned the safety of an ester of Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate, claiming that this chemical may cause cancer and birth defects. Retinyl Palmitate is in a host of anti-aging products, although most experts feel that it is ineffective topically. If you are going OTC, you would be best to find a different Retinol.

   Retinoic acid decreases a number of aspects of photo-aging, and should be in anyone's anti-aging armamentarium. Topical retinoic acid improves fine and coarse wrinkling, and dyspigmenation. This visible improvement is accompanied by reversal of epidermal atrophy ( it thickens the epidermis) and dysplasia ( cells become  more normal and mature). It is felt that Retinoic acid hits some receptors (RAR, and indirectly RXR) that turn on the collagen-producing pathway...the same receptors that sunlight can deleteriously block. This improvement in collagen occurs in the papillary dermis...the top layer of the dermis. 

   I use a Retinoid in any therapeutic attempt at getting rid of pigment whether melasma or liver spots. This can be done either as a stand alone at bed-time or in a combination product with a weak steroid and hydroquinone. ( By the way, dermatologists instruct patients to use Retin A at night, not so much because it can cause a sunburn, but more because the sun inactivates the fragile Retinoic acid molecule rendering it less potent.)

   I would strongly urge you to use a Retinoid at 29 ( except anticipating pregnancy), even though you are free of lines. Sure as the sun will come up tomorrow, you will develop them, the Lord willing.