Genetically dark upper lips right from my childhood, is there any way to decrease pigmentation? (Photo)

Question

I have genetically dark upper lips right from my childhood. I regularly exfoliate and keep it moisturized in hopes of getting it lighten to some degree. But despite all the efforts, it still looks dark and ugly. Is there any way to make my lips pink or decrease the dark shade/pigmentation to a noticeable degree? I have even tried using ointments containing kojic acid niacinamide and Trenaxmic acid, but these too don't work. I am so done. I am attaching a clear picture for better analysis.

Anna Chacon, MD, FAAD · Answer

Thank you for your detailed question and photo.

Genetically dark upper lips can be particularly resistant to typical skin-lightening treatments because the pigmentation is often deeper and more persistent than pigmentation caused by external factors. Despite your diligent use of exfoliants, moisturizers, and depigmenting agents like kojic acid, niacinamide, and tranexamic acid, results may be limited due to the underlying genetic influence.

Here are a few additional strategies that may help improve pigmentation:

Laser Treatments – Devices like Q-switched Nd:YAG lasers can target melanin and may help lighten pigmentation in resistant areas like the upper lip. These require multiple sessions and should only be performed by trained professionals.

Chemical Peels – Mild, superficial peels such as lactic acid or glycolic acid can sometimes aid in improving skin tone over time when performed in a controlled setting.

Topical Agents Under Medical Supervision – In some cases, prescription-strength topical formulations that combine agents such as hydroquinone (used with caution), corticosteroids, or retinoids may provide more significant improvement.

Sun Protection – Daily, diligent use of SPF (even on the lips and surrounding areas) is crucial. UV exposure can worsen pigmentation.

Camouflage Techniques – While not a treatment, cosmetic solutions like lip primers or color correctors can offer temporary aesthetic improvement, especially when paired with medical therapies.

Though genetically based pigmentation is often more difficult to treat, a consistent, medically guided approach may still help reduce its appearance.

Anil R. Shah, MD · Answer

Hello! My name is Jessica, I am a physician assistant, and one of the providers at Aesthetic Skin in Winnetka and Chicago. This is a great question. I understand how frustrating it can be to deal with persistent pigmentation on your upper lip, especially when you’ve tried various treatments without success. Since you’ve already used exfoliation and products like kojic acid, niacinamide, and tranexamic acid without noticeable results, it might be time to consider more targeted options. I recommend treatments including chemical peels, laser therapy, or microneedling, which may effectively reduce pigmentation over time. Additionally, consider looking into prescription-strength topical treatments, such as hydroquinone or retinoids, which might be more effective than over-the-counter products. You could also use tinted lip balms or lipsticks with brightening pigments to create the appearance of a more even tone. Remember to always apply sunscreen to protect the area from further darkening, as sun exposure can exacerbate pigmentation. I hope this helps and best of luck!

Genetically dark upper lips right from my childhood, is there any way to decrease pigmentation? (Photo)

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Genetically dark upper lips right from my childhood, is there any way to decrease pigmentation? (Photo)

Answers (2)

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Everything you need to know about Skin Lightening

Our mission is to create a world where every investment in modern beauty is Worth It.