Dark circles, under-eye bags, and crow’s-feet are nothing to be ashamed about, but neither is wanting to do something about them. After all, the eyes are the windows to the soul, and your soul might just want to look and feel rejuvenated. The skin around the eyes is also the thinnest of the entire facial area, so there is a higher risk for damage. While lack of sleep, poor diet, and genetics can all cause tired-looking eyes, getting older, unfortunately, is another major factor. “Aging of the eyelids is a multivariable problem,” Dr. Manish Shah, a board-certified plastic surgeon in Denver, explains. “Changes in collagen content, tissue elasticity, and hydration status can lead to sagging of the eyelid tissues, wrinkles, and dark circles.” All those years of blinking, smiling, and squinting (aka living life), plus UV exposure, can cause damage to our eyes, he says, which may result in those infamous eye crinkles.
“With age, thin skin around the eyes becomes weaker, leading to sagging and drooping,” adds Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. “As facial volume loss sets in, the cheeks drop and the smooth contour between the under-eye and cheek elongates. This leads to a hollow appearance. In some cases, separation of the fat compartments in the face makes the under-eye appear puffy.”
But before you start thinking you need an eye lift, there are other, noninvasive procedures you can consider before doing anything more drastic. Ahead, six of the best nonsurgical treatments to brighten up and treat aging eyes and give them a more youthful appearance.
Neurotoxins
Injectable neurotoxins, such as Botox, Dysport, Xeomin, and Jeuveau, are a good way to reduce the potential of future wrinkles’ developing around the eyes and temporarily erase existing ones, Dr. Shah says. “If a patient comes to see me for nonsurgical options for eyelid rejuvenation, my initial treatment typically involves the use of neurotoxin and eye cream with retinoids and growth factors,” he explains, adding that while the cost varies by location, patients generally pay him $150–250, every three to four months, to reduce motion in the crow’s-foot area and soften the wrinkles. “Routine use of neurotoxin leads to gentle muscle atrophy, resulting in a more restful appearance to the eyelids. The biggest risk with the use of neurotoxin is the migration of the medication into the eyelid-lifting muscle, causing eyelid droop,” he says.
Related: What’s the Difference Between Botox, Dysport, Xeomin and Jeuveau?
Fillers
If lost facial volume and subsequent puffiness are a concern, Dr. Zeichner says, fillers are the way to go. “Injectable fillers under the eye can improve the transition between the under-eye area and the cheek,” he says. If hollowing is a major concern, Dr. Shah suggests hyaluronic acid (HA) fillers to his patients if they don’t want to do a micro fat transfer. “For the tear troughs, I really like Belotero. It is soft and easily injected with a 27g microcannula, for safety,” he says. “For upper eyelid hollowing, I prefer a slightly heavier filler, like Restylane Refyne or Juvéderm Ultra Plus, in small quantities, to fill the hollows and create a more youthful orbit.” Dr. Shah also points out that you should always have the procedure, which typically costs between $500–650 for a syringe of HA filler, performed by a safe, expert injector. “Risks with filler include lumps, tissue loss, and blindness. While rare, these are devastating. The use of an expert injector is a must!” he says.
Lasers
While it can be pricey, costing $1,000 and up, laser resurfacing is another treatment to consider, since it can help with a myriad of issues involving the skin around the eye. “Lasers can be performed just under the eye but, more commonly, are used on the full face,” Dr. Zeichner says. “Lasers can help improve skin tone and texture, strengthen the skin, and improve the appearance of wrinkles and crepiness.” Dr. Shah says that his preference is to treat with fractional CO2 laser resurfacing if his patients don’t mind the downtime, because “the results are superior.”
Related: 10 Concealers Almost As Good As Under-Eye Filler
RF skin tightening
Radiofrequency skin tightening is another noninvasive procedure that can be used to tighten and lift eyelid skin, Dr. Shah says. A treatment like Thermage uses radiowave technology that slowly heats the dermis, which in turn stimulates collagen production, reducing wrinkles as well as the hooded appearance sagging lids can cause.
Microneedling
After treating his patient with his neurotoxin and retinoid eye cream combo, Dr. Shah typically recommends a series of microneedling RF treatments because of their efficacy relative to risk. Microneedling, which uses tiny needles to puncture the skin and cause micro wounds, stimulates collagen and elastin production, leading to firmer skin and improved texture. It is also a better alternative than fractional lasers for people with deep skin tones, since lasers come with a risk of scarring and hyperpigmentation. Microneedling RF is an enhanced version of this, as it combines microneedling with radiofrequency energy, delivering RF deep into the dermis to allow for a faster and more dramatic result.
Topicals
If you’re not ready to book a procedure with a provider just yet, there are at-home treatments you can try first. “Nonsurgical options for treating periorbital aging should be viewed holistically,” Dr. Shah explains. “The most important thing you can do is to wear physical sunblock and 100% UV-blocking sunglasses, to thwart UV radiation damage.”
He also suggests vitamin C serum, peptides, and hyaluronic acid to help nourish and rejuvenate the delicate eyelid area. “Medical-grade eye creams are an affordable way to reduce the aging appearance of the eyelid skin. The biggest risk with eye creams has to do with skin sensitivity to certain ingredients,” he says. Retinoids are another option; they increase skin cell turnover. “This gets rid of thin, old skin and replaces it with thicker, younger skin,” Dr. Shah explains.
Eye creams containing caffeine are also something Dr. Zeichner recommends. “Caffeine constricts blood vessels, to help remove excess fluid, and minimizes the appearance of puffiness,” he says.
