Not all skin is created equal, and the newest crop of personalized skin-care brands takes that seriously. Instead of choosing a product from the shelf and crossing your fingers, you can now sit back and let dermatologists, sophisticated algorithms, and artificial intelligence do the work for you.
The approach is smart, considering the sheer number of products available. “Custom-made skin care can be the next best alternative to seeing a dermatologist,” says New York City board-certified dermatologist Dr. Rita Linkner. “Women today have so many skin-care options and are confused about what to use on their skin—and some of these bespoke lines may help to demystify that.”
Another part of the appeal is that these brands often recommend a streamlined, targeted routine, which could potentially yield better results in a shorter amount of time. “Not everyone has the same issues and concerns with their skin—there are many possible skin problems that people could experience,” says Dr. Rachel Nazarian, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. If the recommended skin-care lineup is customized to treat your particular issue, it could be more effective and efficient as well as minimize the risk of interactions with unnecessary or additional ingredients. That’s a win-win.
But that doesn’t mean you have to drop your current skin-care lineup, particularly if it’s working for you. “Many people respond to the active ingredients in store-bought products without issue,” Dr. Nazarian says. But typical formulations don’t always account for allergies to specific ingredients or unusual, less-mainstream skin conditions—which is where customized formulas can be particularly helpful.
As with any budding trend, though, there’s still room for improvement. For one, a lot depends on your specific skin condition and how accurate your self-analysis may be: It’s not necessarily as easy as pinpointing your skin type and determining whether you have oily skin or dry skin. Do you have a breakout, or is it some kind of reaction? Correctly identifying issues can make or break a custom skin-care product, and unless you’re a board-certified dermatologist, that can be harder than you think. “Many skin conditions can mimic each other, so before you assume your skin problems are ‘acne’ or an ‘allergy,’ it’s always best to seek the guidance of a board-certified dermatologist rather than attempting to diagnose yourself,” says Dr. Nazarian.
It’s not just user error that can impact results. It can also come down to who is reviewing your quiz results or uploaded photo. In some cases, that’s artificial intelligence; in others, an actual dermatologist analyzes the information you provide. That can make all the difference. “An algorithm only works as well as the data that’s put into it,” says Perry Romanowski, an independent cosmetic chemist in Chicago and the founder of TheBeautyBrains.com. “Algorithms don’t have the ability to predict tactile sensations, so ultimately, a cosmetic chemist would be better at developing a formula than a computer program—at least, for the moment.”
Still, if you’re not happy with your current routine, a customized regimen made just for you is worth considering. Here, your guide to the different personalized options out there and what might work best for you, your skin needs, and your skin-care goals.
The brand: Function of Beauty
What it is: Best known as a customized hair-care brand, Function of Beauty recently expanded to include skin-care products. (Fun fact: They acquired the technology from Atolla, a custom skin-care line that was cofounded by Dr. Ranella Hirsch, a board-certified dermatologist in Boston.) As is the case with their hair products, you take a short skin quiz, answering questions about your skin type, makeup usage, and skin-care goals. An algorithm then creates a personalized cleanser, serum, and/or moisturizer, relying on a laundry list of specifically-chosen active ingredients. All the formulas are also sulfate- and paraben-free, as well as cruelty-free.
Who it’s for: Function of Beauty is ideal for anyone who doesn’t want to spend a lot of time on the customization process—the quiz can be completed in less than a minute—and wants to keep their routine simple and streamlined. (That being said, the algorithm doesn’t take into account any other types of products or ingredients you may be using.) Plus, all of the products can be purchased individually, so it’s also a good option if you’re just looking to dip your toe into the customized skin-care trend via a single product.
The cost: $70-$120 for kits of two to three products (a three-month supply).
Related: How to Make the Most of Acids in Your Skin Care Routine
The brand: Skinsei
What it is: This subscription-based service relies on what they call a “holistic diagnostic”—essentially a comprehensive skin quiz that takes into account everything from your complexion concerns to overall lifestyle factors—think stress levels, dietary restrictions, sleep patterns, exercise habits, and where you live. An algorithm uses this info to create a ”BioPrint,” determining exactly what types of TLC your skin needs and selecting the best products for you from several types of cleansers, serums, and moisturizers. This trio makes up the Core Kit; the Complete Kit includes a mask and a “finisher,” which could be a mist, balm, or smoothing gel. The products can also be purchased individually.
Who it’s for: Skinsei takes a more wellness-minded approach to its assessment than other customized skin-care brands, and if you can’t get to the bottom of your biggest skin concerns, it might just be able to pin down the problem—the algorithm takes every aspect of your life into consideration when recommending formulas. However, they’re not custom-blended; rather, the algorithm chooses from a vast lineup of preformulated, targeted products (which also happen to be cruelty-free) to suit your specific needs.
The cost: $69 per month for the Complete Kit and $45 per month for the Core Kit, though you have the option to make a one-time purchase.
The brand: Curology
What it is: One of the original customizable skin-care brands, Curology was developed as a way to connect acne-prone consumers with dermatologists—no office visits required. First, you take a few selfies and complete a quick quiz about your skin. Then a dermatologist or dermatology physician’s assistant reviews that information, creates and shares your custom treatment plan, and sends you a cream with ingredients handpicked to treat your specific type(s) of acne. Recently, they expanded to offer a custom anti-aging lotion, also prescribed by a dermatology provider. They also offer a handful of staple skin-care products—sunscreen, acne body wash, makeup remover, and more—that can be purchased via a subscription model.
Who it’s for: Anyone who has suffered from acne, whether mild breakouts or cystic acne, could benefit from this brand. For each customer, Curology assigns a provider who can diagnose and deliver prescription-strength, acne-fighting actives, such as tretinoin (a form of vitamin A that’s stronger than over-the-counter retinol) and clindamycin. That saves you a trip to the dermatologist to get an in-person prescription.
The cost: $0 for a 30-day trial (excluding shipping), with monthly shipments starting at $19.95.
The brand: Hop & Cotton
What it is: This Australian brand offers either a complete skin-care regimen to address concerns or stand-alone products that you can pick and choose to suit your needs, with the results drawn from a brief online quiz. Using this info, founder and cosmetic chemist Ee Ting Ng works with a team of cosmetic chemists to formulate products that minimize unnecessary filler ingredients and load up on actives. Its core regimen consists of just three products: cleanser, exfoliant (with lactic, salicylic, or glycolic acid), and moisturizer.
Who it’s for: The streamlined routine is perfect if you want a complete overhaul for your skin—or just need a fast, überefficient skin-care routine. With just three steps (and the option for add-ons, if you want them), it’s both simple and thorough. Plus, the bespoke collection takes the guesswork out of any repetition within your routine so you don’t go overboard on actives, which could risk irritation.
The cost: $225 for the complete three-step regimen, with additional products starting at $14.
Related: How a Tainted Wrinkle Cream Put One Woman Into a Coma
The brand: Proven
What it is: This customized skin-care brand goes outside the box, eschewing some of the usual topicals like toners, serums, and masks. Instead, it involves a skin assessment and a complimentary 15-minute consultation with an aesthetician (through either phone call or video chat), after which the brand sends three products: cleanser, day cream with SPF, and night cream. (There’s also an eye cream duo, featuring both daytime and evening formulations.) It’s powered by the Skin Genome Project, which sifts through a staggering amount of data, including more than 20,000 skin-care ingredients, 8 million customer testimonials, and 4,000 scientific publications, to choose the ideal ingredients for you.
Who it’s for: If you want a super-simple system that goes deep, Proven is just that. It’s the only brand that involves a one-on-one consultation as part of its process. And with just two steps in the morning and at night, it’s easy to use and minimizes the risk of irritation or sensitivity.
The cost: $145 for the set of cleanser, day cream, and night cream. You can also buy each individually, as needed.
The brand: Acne Intelligence
What it is: This subscription-based brand exists on an app, where you can upload your makeup-free selfie. That’s the only step on your end. Next, proprietary technology (a combination of artificial intelligence and computer vision technology) closely analyzes your skin to detect the severity of acne, dryness, oiliness, and inflammation. From there, it matches the data up with predetermined recommendations—all within seconds.
Who it’s for: If you have no idea what’s happening with your skin, the AI technology with Acne Intelligence may be able to figure it out for you. There’s no consultation involved or self-assessment required, making it the fastest option available. But because of that, you have to trust that the AI technology is accurate.
The cost: $30 to $50 per month, depending on the recommended products.
