Whether or not you’re prone to breakouts, pores have a pesky habit of becoming clogged from dead skin cells, excess oil production, or some combination of the two. Removing that gunk is key to keeping skin clear and healthy, especially if you have oily skin. That said, clogged pores can happen to all skin types; pores are simply the opening of the hair follicles, and everyone has them. While active sebaceous glands (as with oily skin) may predispose you to clogs, others aren’t necessarily exempt.
Worst case scenario? Without a regular pore-clearing habit in your skin-care routine, that build-up within pores can eventually turn into pimples. For example, the combination of sebum and dead cells can lead to blackheads (if the comedone is open, which leads the clog to oxidize and turn black) and whiteheads (wherein the comedone is closed, so the clog remains white). And even if they don’t cause whiteheads, blackheads, or some other form of acne, they can still contribute to the appearance of large pores—since the debris within can actually stretch out the pore walls.
Not surprisingly, then, there are a million different ways to unclog pores, from old-school, DIY pore strips to clay masks. And, of course, there are the pore vacuums, which offer deep pore-cleansing abilities. “I look at pore vacuums as an alternative to a scrub or exfoliator,” says Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. “You can use them once or twice a week, to keep the skin clear and minimize the appearance of pores.”
But with that extra power comes extra responsibility. Dr. Deanne Mraz Robinson, a board-certified dermatologist in Westport, Connecticut, warns that if the vacuums are used overzealously, you can easily end up with broken capillaries that could require laser treatment to repair. “With ongoing use, excessive tugging on delicate skin around the eyes and mouth can lead to wrinkles and skin laxity,” she cautions. And if you have very sensitive skin or rosacea or are eczema-prone, adding the suction of a vacuum or the manual exfoliation of one of these scrubbers could aggravate the condition.
To use one safely, Dr. Robinson says, start by loosening the sebum in the clogged pores with a steam or use the device post-shower (since the warm water can enlarge pores). And follow with a non-comedogenic, oil-free moisturizer, to restore the moisture that’s naturally sapped from skin by the deep-cleaning process, and also follow up with a sunscreen.
With one of these popular pore cleansers, you can step away from the magnifying mirror and put your time at home to better use. Sourdough starter, perhaps?
How to clean your pores
Chemical exfoliants
Whether you prefer to wash your face with a salicylic acid-based cleanser or swear by a gentle chemical peel, chemical exfoliants—which range from alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids to fruit enzymes—can help keep pores clear. Beta-hydroxy acid, or BHA, is especially helpful for clogged pores; it’s oil-soluble, so it can actually get inside the pore to clear it from within. Glycolic acid, a type of alpha hydroxy acid, is also useful, since it essentially dissolves the glue that binds dead cells together on skin’s surface—allowing them to more easily shed. You can find chemical exfoliants in toners and face masks too.
Retinoids
No surprise to anyone who’s tried retinol: retinoids—the umbrella term for both prescription-strength retinoids and over-the-counter retinol—can help keep pores clean and clear. Not only do they speed up cellular turnover, which allows skin to shed dead skin cells and pushes healthy ones to the surface that much face, but they can help stimulate collagen, too—making them ideal if you’re dealing with adult acne, since retinoids address both acne and signs of aging. Just be sure to use retinoids at night and follow with sunscreen for daytime, as they can make skin sensitive to sunlight. (FYI: The American Academy of Dermatology recommends a minimum of SPF 30 for the best possible protection.)
Face masks
While clay-based face masks have historically been the go-to for clearing grime and oil, they can work a little too well, stripping skin of its natural oils. Instead, opt for charcoal masks; charcoal draws out blockages from pores but won’t dry skin. Steer clear of homemade face masks, like those with baking soda—they can be too harsh for skin and may lead to irritation.
Pore-cleaning vacuums
Rodan + Fields Pore Cleansing MD System, $260
The combo of suction and pressure with interchangeable heads makes this device comparable to medical-grade options, says Dr. Rita Linkner, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. You have the choice between a two-speed suction tip, to remove debris from pores, and a spring-action pressure tip designed to target individual blackheads, mimicking the process of extractions.
The pretreatment serum, containing salicylic and lactic acids, breaks down pore-clogging skin cells and sebum in order to prep the skin. “This results in a more effective treatment overall,” Dr. Linkner explains. “My favorite part of the device is the disposable heads, which add a layer of sterility to this system,” she says. “This is of utmost importance when treating active acne and preventing the risk of spread.”
Related: The 4 Biggest Mistakes People Make During an At-Home Facial
PMD Personal Microderm Classic, $159
An oscillating aluminum oxide crystal disc works with suction to polish the skin, putting this tool on par with professional facials. “This will slough off dead skin cells at the surface so the suction can better reach what’s within the pore,” Dr. Robinson says. Removing that dulling layer leaves the skin smoother and more radiant but also means there are fewer clogging keratinocytes sitting around to fill up your pores down the road. The addition of a larger tip, to treat more expansive areas of the body, like the upper arms, gives this tool added versatility, especially if you have conditions like keratosis pilaris.
PMD provides three discs to vary the intensity of the exfoliation. Start with the most gentle and make only one pass over each area of the face, to avoid bruising.
While microdermabrasion is a dermatologist favorite for encouraging cellular turnover and keeping pores decongested, Dr. Michelle Henry, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, warns that because this device temporarily increases inflammation, people with acne, rosacea, and melasma should avoid it. A guard around the disc helps protect the skin from too much pressure, but it’s still wise to opt for the lowest intensity and wait a week between treatments.
Spa Sciences MIO, $29
What makes this device shine are fine diamond particles that physically exfoliate the uppermost layer of the skin. “Diamond tips are gentle, effective, and durable,” Dr. Zeichner says. “Extremely fine particles give gentle exfoliation, to remove dead skin cells and enhance light reflection.” Dr. Henry adds that polishing away the surface layers not only brightens the complexion but also stimulates the skin, to promote the growth of healthy new skin cells.
The MIO offers five speed settings, which means you can stay in the lower range to avoid putting extreme stress on your skin. Plus the three suction tips are designed to contour to the challenging areas of the T-zone where blackheads congregate, such as the edges of the nose and the chin.
Dermaflash Dermapore, $99
To aid in blackhead extraction, the Dermapore uses sonic vibration to free dirt, oil, and dead skin from pores. “Sonic vibrations are extremely gentle and can help dislodge microscopic blockages in the skin,” Dr. Zeichner says. This is a gentler option than manual extraction, says Dr. Henry, but using too much pressure with the device can permanently enlarge pores or cause broken blood vessels. She advises starting with the ultra-sensitive setting, to manage the force before working your way up in intensity.
This tool wins points for its multifunctionality: switch to Infuse mode, and the vibrations will help serums and moisturizers penetrate, for better absorption.
Gugug Skin Scrubber, $25
This high-frequency vibrating stainless steel spatula not only frees sebum but also releases positive ions, which aid in the pore-cleaning process by “attracting negatively charged impurities in the pores and drawing them out,” Dr. Henry explains, “so you can then wash them away.” Switching the ionic current from positive to negative allows you to drive in active ingredients by enhancing the penetration of your skin-care products. Put the wand in Lifting mode for massaging benefits that help tone the facial muscles like an automated gua sha tool, to subtly define your features.
