Shed it, don't shred it - an exfoliation guide

Regular exfoliation is one step to more luminous and smooth skin. It is particularly effective in conjunction with medical peels and microdermabrasion.

There is no one method for every individual, and like all effective skin care options, it is a matter of trial and error to find your best option. Your dermatologist can guide you with the decision. I have found both mechanical (rough face cloth or fine scrub) and chemical (AHA, salicylic acid) are effective.

I am not a fan of salt on the face. Sugar is popular for body scrubs. I usually recommend fine particulate scrubs on the face, or gentle enzyme peels.

It is important to inform your skin care provider about allergies and the use of retinoids like Retin-A.  Always remember that exfoliation is important just before using an "active" like antioxidant or moisturizer to enhance penetration.

Use regular sun protection to prevent future damage while you are correcting the old damage from sun exposure.

There are hundreds of exfoliating grains on the market but only one that is safe to use on your face. The only scrubbing agent that is perfectly round and will not cause tiny injuries to your skin is jojoba beads.

Don't use scrubs containing any of the following:

• Salt
• Sugar
• Nut
• Shell
• Seed

Alpha hydroxy acid and multiple fruit acids in products are safe and effective ingredients for exfoliating the skin without physically scrubbing the skin.

When using products containing alpha hydroxy acids, use gentle formulas that do not burn or excessively exfoliate. Alpha hydroxy acid can be found in cleansing cremes, lotions, serums, cremes, exfoliating cleansers and masques. Always uses sunscreen when using alpha hydroxy acid products.

I recommend exfoliation, as it helps get rid of layers of dead skin allowing the repair products that you use to work more effectively.

However, I recommend exfoliation once a week only for most people as part of one's skin maintenance regime.

Exfoliation products I recommend:

1. Wash Cloth
2. Special exfoliation towels
3. Simple exfoliation products

If you are having facials, microdermabrasions and chemical peels, then exfoliating once a week could be too much for your skin. You may have to reduce it to once a month.

You don't need a lot of special products to exfoliate your skin. A good, old-fashioned washcloth works, when soaked in warm water and used gently.

• If you want to use an exfoliating cream or scrub, be sure to test it on your hand first.

Make sure it has very fine grains or particles. Many commercially available scrubs contain abrasive particles that can scratch and irritate the skin. Be gentle and don't use them more than once or twice a week, as you can cause more harm than good.

• Acid-based products dissolve the bonds between skin cells on the surface of the skin as opposed to physically rubbing off the surface of the skin.

These are a very good choice, particularly for sensitive skins. These come in cleansers, creams, and scrubs. Again, start light and don't use these more than once or twice a week until you see how your skin responds. And watch the strength of the acid -- the stronger the acid, the deeper the effect.

• For most people, exfoliating every day is not a good idea.

That can be too harsh for the skin and can cause skin irritation, crusting, and other problems. Once or twice a week is usually sufficient for most people for at-home exfoliation. If you are going to your doctor for chemical peels, once every 2 to 4 weeks is probably enough, but the frequency really depends on the strength of the peel.