There’s no denying that stretch marks (technical name: striae) can be an irksome and unsightly condition to deal with, but take heart in knowing that it’s an extremely common issue. Even supermodels aren’t immune—remember when Chrissy Teigen caused a social media frenzy after posting a video of hers?
But what exactly is a stretch mark? According to Dr. Ted Lain, a board-certified dermatologist in Austin, Texas, the term is a bit misleading. “They really should be called stretch scars, because that’s what they are. They’re scars that occur when collagen and elastin in the dermis are damaged, due to rapid stretching of the skin,” he explains. (Calling them marks also connotes that they might be erasable, he adds, which is most definitely not the case. More on that point to come.) This then leads to small tears in the tissue, revealing blood vessels and resulting in pink, red, or purple lines on the skin’s surface. Eventually, as the blood vessels contract, the discoloration fades and the streaks look like scars, says New York City dermatologist Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank. Stretch marks can present with increased or decreased amounts of color from the get go, he adds; they often can appear white from the beginning, particularly on dark skin tones.
Since acute stretching of the skin is the primary culprit here, stretch marks are most likely to crop up during and after rapid body changes—weight gain or loss, a growth spurt, and, of course, pregnancy. (According to a study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, more than 50% of women developed stretch marks while pregnant.) And while they can occur anywhere on the body, they most often arise in areas with larger fat deposits, such as the abdomen, buttocks, breasts, and thighs, says Dr. Frank. At the end of the day, whether you end up with stretch marks at some point in your life is predetermined: “Genetics has everything to do with the stretch marks. Some people simply naturally have thicker and more elastic skin than others,” Dr. Frank explains.
As far as stretch mark treatments go, the hard truth of the matter is that there’s really no way of eliminating them entirely. “Treatments can make stretch marks fade but will not completely remove them,” notes Dr. Robyn Gmyrek, a board-certified dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon in New York City. That being said, certain solutions are more effective than others. The high-level summary: Don’t be surprised if the stretch mark cream you’ve been slathering on with reckless abandon isn’t working. In-office procedures are where it’s at. “The damage is below the skin, so there really are no topical products that can effectively reduce or remove these marks,” notes Dr. Frank. Ahead, five other options to try instead.
Prescription-strength retinoids
We know, we know, we just said topicals don’t work, but this is the one quasi-exception to the rule. “Retinoids stimulate collagen and elastic tissue and have been shown to decrease the redness of newer stretch marks faster than no treatment,” says Dr. Gmyrek. Retinoic acid (such as tretinoin), which you can get only with a prescription, is what’s been studied specifically for stretch marks; if it’s too irritating, you can try an OTC retinol instead—just keep in mind that it likely won’t work as well. The pros of going the retinoid route? It’s the least expensive option and not at all invasive. The cons? It will take at least 12 weeks to see any results, and you can’t use any kind of retinoid while you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, cautions Dr. Gmyrek.
In-office microneedling
Just as facial microneedling helps stimulate collagen production to minimize wrinkles, those same benefits can translate into less noticeable stretch marks on the body. Tiny needles are rolled along the stretch marks to create microscopic injuries, triggering a wound-healing response that results in increased collagen and possibly elastin as well, says Dr. Lain. Besides some redness for a few days afterward, there’s no downtime, and any improvement you do achieve will be permanent. That being said, you’ll need anywhere from 3 to 10 treatments, ranging from $200 to $1,500 each. It’s also worth noting that microneedling can improve the texture of the skin but won’t eliminate any redness or pigment from stretch marks.
Related: 6 Moms Share the Stretch Mark Products That Really Work
Laser stretch mark removal
There are two types of lasers commonly used to treat stretch marks.
Pulsed dye lasers, such as VBeam
This laser targets the redness in newly formed stretch marks, directing pulses of light energy at the blood vessels to alleviate the red pigmentation, explains Dr. Frank. Your skin may feel warm during the procedure, but the experience is otherwise fairly quick and easy. “It’s a good option for reducing redness and slowing the scars’ progression when they’re new,” says Dr. Frank, though it won’t work on scars that have faded. How many laser sessions you’ll need and the final cost will vary, based on the area treated. Generally speaking, plan on anywhere from three to five sessions, spaced one month apart, starting at around $500 apiece.
Fractional resurfacing laser, such as Fraxel Restore
These work via a similar method of action as microneedling, creating precise and controlled wounds in the stretch marks in order to trigger the production of new collagen and elastin, explains Dr. Grymek. Fraxel Restore is Dr. Frank’s choice: “I can get rid of 80% to 90% of stretch marks with this laser,” he says, adding that it works especially well for those located on the hips and thighs. More specifically, these lasers are ideal for targeting older and wider marks, helping to both narrow them and improve the overall texture of the skin. Fractional resurfacing laser treatments are painful, so your provider will likely use a topical anesthetic to numb the area. Expect up to a week of redness afterward, and you’ll need three to five treatments, each costing around $1,200.
According to Dr. Frank, both of these lasers are generally safe and effective to use on all skin tones to treat stretch marks. However, it’s important (as always) to choose a reputable, licensed provider, since there is an increased risk of burning and hyperpigmentation when lasering darker skin.
Radiofrequency microneedling, such as Vivace
As the name suggests, this option combines two different mechanisms to help stimulate collagen production. “Radiofrequency works by heating the dermis, denaturing the natural collagen and resulting in new collagen,” explains Dr. Lain. While there are many radiofrequency (RF) treatments that don’t involve any microneedling, pairing the two modalities increases the efficacy. When the radiofrequency energy can travel through the microscopic channels the needles create, it gets directly into the dermis, at the precise depth where it needs to be for effective results, points out Dr. Frank. As with the fractionated lasers, this treatment is best for older, less pigmented marks, and there will be some downtime and some discomfort. “Most people are able to resume normal activities within two days, but for some it can take up to five, depending on the area being treated,” warns Dr. Frank. And again, one session won’t be enough. Two to five are typically required, ideally spaced four weeks apart in order to give enough time for the skin to recover and collagen induction to begin, he says. Prices vary but start at around $1,000–$1,200 per treatment.
