{"id":17866,"date":"2021-04-01T12:08:32","date_gmt":"2021-04-01T19:08:32","guid":{"rendered":"https://www.realself.com\/news\/?p=17866"},"modified":"2021-04-01T12:08:38","modified_gmt":"2021-04-01T19:08:38","slug":"pro-tips-caring-for-melanated-skin","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https://www.realself.com\/news\/pro-tips-caring-for-melanated-skin","title":{"rendered":"4 Pro Rules for Taking Care of Melanated Skin"},"content":{"rendered":"

Sure, we all have skin issues, but when it comes to caring for skin of color, there can be more to contend with than run-of-the-mill zits and wrinkles. Hyperpigmentation<\/a>, for example—dark marks that give a mottled look—tends to be a constant battle for those who have more melanin, or pigment, in their skin.<\/p>

Melanin is the largest influencer of an individual’s skin color: more melanin equals a darker complexion. “Skin tones are determined by the amount and organization of melanin within the melanosomes and keratinocytes,” explains Dr. Alexis Stephens<\/a>, a board-certified dermatologist in Coral Springs, Florida. “Melanin is created by melanocytes in the skin. Melanocytes are programmed to produce certain types and amounts of melanin.”<\/p>

Abundant melanin content affords skin a certain degree of inherent UV protection, making it less prone to sunburns and slower to develop wrinkles and other signs of sun damage—but it doesn’t impart all-out invincibility. “If people with dark skin tones smoke or vape, use tanning beds, and live an unhealthy lifestyle, they can wrinkle and age just as fast as their friends with lighter skin,” says Dr. Jeanine Downie<\/a>, a board-certified dermatologist in Montclair, New Jersey. <\/p>

Melanin-rich skin tones are more prone to experiencing hyperpigmentation when inflammation attacks the skin, explains Dr. Corey L. Hartman<\/a>, a board-certified dermatologist in Homewood, Alabama. And inflammation can come in many forms. “UV rays, pollutants, burns, and irritation all overstimulate the enzyme tyrosinase, resulting in an excess of melanin to the skin surface,” says Dr. Stephens, which can present as irregular dark spots or patches.<\/p>

“In my patients with acne, those with dark skin are often bothered as much or more by the dark spots that stick around after the pimples than by the pimples themselves,” explains Dr. Hadley King<\/a>, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. <\/p>

All of which is to say, skin of color demands special care. Ahead, the top skin-care rules dermatologists share with their BIPOC patients.<\/p>

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Rule #1: go easy with active ingredients in skin-care products.<\/strong><\/h2>

Be careful with ingredients that have the potential to cause irritation, as these can trigger postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), Dr. King says.<\/p>

If you’re planning to use retinoids or benzoyl peroxide, it’s a good idea to consult with a dermatologist first, “because if used too quickly and at high concentrations, they can cause hyperpigmentation,” says Dr. Sandy Skotnicki<\/a>, a board-certified dermatologist in Toronto.<\/p>

Your derm can offer guidelines for safely incorporating these workhorse ingredients into your skin-care routine. Take retinoids—vitamin A creams that help with everything from acne to discoloration and wrinkles: Dr. Hartman advises his BIPOC patients to introduce these power players slowly by easing in with an over-the-counter retinol, applied only once or twice a week, at night, and always pairing them with a moisturizer, to minimize unnecessary inflammation. Likewise, since acne-fighting benzoyl peroxide “can cause irritant contact dermatitis for a disproportionate number of people with dark skin, it should be used as a cleanser, with short contact time, instead of a leave-on product.” CeraVe Acne Foaming Cream Cleanser<\/a> ($12) combines benzoyl peroxide with ceramides, to offset potential irritation.<\/p>

Gold-standard skin lightener hydroquinone (or HQ) should also be explored under the care of a derm, who can prescribe the ideal strength for your skin and explain how to use the bleaching ingredient properly. According to Dr. Stephens, the percentage of HQ found in drugstore products is generally “too low to be effective but high enough to cause irritation and worsen pigmentation.” <\/p>

“Hydroquinone must be monitored,” echoes Dr. Hartman. “It’s so potent that it can cause halo pigmentation, or an area of skin that is too light around the original dark spot—which makes for a mottled and unnatural skin tone.”<\/p>

To sidestep this complication, doctors will sometimes reserve HQ as a last resort and, instead, start patients on gentler skin brighteners, like azelaic acid, tranexamic acid, or cysteamine, which can achieve “similar and sometimes superior” results, Dr. Hartman says. <\/p>

Rule #2: treat hyperpigmentation carefully, should it arise.<\/strong><\/h2>

Irksome ingredients aren’t the only instigators of hyperpigmentation—anything that the skin registers as an insult or injury can spur pigment cells to crank out more melanin. This means skin picking and popping pimples are especially big no-nos for those with skin of color.<\/p>

For minor mottling, Austin aesthetician Renee Rouleau<\/a> suggests using a mild exfoliating acid cleanser, once a week, to loosen up discolored cells from the skin’s surface. (Try Senté Exfoliating Cleanser<\/a>, $29, which has glycolic and phytic acids.) Then, once or twice a week, lightly circle a gentle scrub—with nonplastic, rounded beads—over skin, to physically lift off damaged cells that have been uprooted by your cleanser.  <\/p>

For more severe or stubborn PIH, talk to your derm about adding the aforementioned lighteners to your skin-care lineup. And don’t forget: UV rays can exacerbate discoloration across skin tones, so sunscreen with an SPF higher than 30 is essential when battling hyperpigmentation. Look for formulas with added brighteners, like vitamin C and niacinamide, to help even things out. Obagi Sun Shield Matte Broad Spectrum SPF 50<\/a> ($53) is a derm favorite.<\/p>

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