{"id":17696,"date":"2021-03-30T15:04:54","date_gmt":"2021-03-30T22:04:54","guid":{"rendered":"https://www.realself.com\/news\/?p=17696"},"modified":"2021-04-08T11:12:21","modified_gmt":"2021-04-08T18:12:21","slug":"what-to-know-before-buying-vitamin-c","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https://www.realself.com\/news\/what-to-know-before-buying-vitamin-c","title":{"rendered":"5 Things To Know Before You Buy a Vitamin C Product, According to Derms"},"content":{"rendered":"

Vitamin C is a skin-care triple threat, a favorite among dermatologists. So, exactly what does vitamin C do for your face?<\/strong> “Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that also lightens discoloration and helps smooth fine lines,” explains Dr. Jennifer Reichel<\/a>, a board-certified dermatologist in Seattle. By neutralizing free radicals (caused by exposure to environmental factors such as UV rays and pollution), it helps to prevent and reduce skin cell damage, she says. As far as brightening goes, vitamin C works in two different ways. Dr. Reichel notes that, because vitamin C is actually an acid, it does have a mild exfoliating effect that helps to fade existing discoloration. But it’s also a choice ingredient to keep new spots from forming: “Vitamin C inhibits the production of tyrosinase, an enzyme critical for the production of melanin, or pigment,” explains Dr. Emily Arch<\/a>, a board-certified dermatologist in Chicago. In addition, she adds, the vitamin both increases collagen production and prevents the breakdown of collagen and elastin via its antioxidant properties, making it an effective wrinkle fighter.<\/p>

In short, vitamin C is a highly effective multitasker that targets a number of different complexion concerns and is undoubtedly worth incorporating into any skin-care routine. But it’s not quite so simple. There are a few important points to consider when choosing—and using—vitamin C skin-careproducts. Here’s what you need to know. <\/p>

Related: 5 Things to Know Before You Buy Retinol, According to Derms<\/a><\/em><\/p>

1. Not all forms of vitamin C are created equal.<\/strong><\/h2>

Just as there are different types of retinoids, so too are there many different types of vitamin C. Experts tend to agree that L-ascorbic acid is the most potent and most effective of them all. It’s the most biologically active, meaning that your skin can immediately use it, says Dr. Arch. Sounds good, right? It is, but there are a few big caveats. L-ascorbic acid is, notoriously, the most unstable of all the vitamin C variants, easily degraded by exposure to light, air, and heat, she says. And though it can penetrate the skin quite well, that’s only when it’s formulated in a product with an acidic pH of about 3.2, explains New York City board-certified dermatologist Dr. Sheryl D. Clark<\/a>. But that acidic pH correlates with an increased likelihood of irritation, particularly for those with sensitive skin. And finally, because L-ascorbic acid is water-soluble, it’s most effective when found in serums rather than in creams or moisturizers.  (For this reason, when it comes to vitamin c skin care, serums will always give you the most bang for your buck.) <\/p>

Alternatives to L-ascorbic acid include THD ascorbate, a fairly new ingredient that isn’t pH-dependent and, as such, is much easier to formulate with, use, and layer with other products, notes Dr. Clark. The other benefit? It’s fat-soluble, meaning it can be incorporated into products that are oil-based, such as creams and masks. <\/p>

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate are two other vitamin C derivatives, both of which undergo a conversion process in the skin and ultimately turn into L-ascorbic acid. Both are water-soluble (so, again, look for them in serums rather than in lotions or creams). They’re less potent but are, therefore, less likely to cause irritation—a worthwhile choice for those with sensitive skin, suggests Dr. Reichel.<\/p>

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Derm product recommendation: the one-stop-shop serum<\/h3>

iS clinical Super Serum Advance Plus<\/a> ($155)<\/strong><\/p>

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This serum contains time-released L-ascorbic acid (while the percentage isn’t disclosed, it is the second ingredient listed). It’s paired with additional antioxidants plus arbutin, for an extra brightening boost, and touts hydrating hyaluronic acid and glycerin as well.<\/p>

Derm product recommendation: the gateway cleanser<\/strong><\/h3>

Obagi C- Rx C-Cleansing Gel<\/a> ($43)<\/strong><\/p>

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Yes, derms unanimously agree that using a serum is the best way to reap the benefits of vitamin C. That being said, it can be too intense for those with more sensitive skin, which is where this vitamin C-based cleanser comes in. It contains potent L-ascorbic acid, but because it’s not in contact with your skin for that long before it’s rinsed off, the risk of irritation is reduced. In short, it’s a great way to still get some of the benefits of vitamin C and\/or help your skin gradually acclimate to the powerful ingredient.<\/p>

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2. Read the ingredients label carefully.<\/strong><\/h2>

Along with understanding which type of vitamin C you’re getting, you’ll also want to consider the concentration. “Vitamin C products tend to come in 5%, 10%, 15%, and 20% concentrations, but I recommend starting at 10% and gradually increasing, as tolerated,” advises Dr. Reichel. Dr. Clark agrees, noting that 10% is a good lower limit to ensure quality efficacy. And while it’s usually products with L-ascorbic acid that specify the concentration, the same guidelines apply to all the aforementioned variants of vitamin C, says Dr. Arch. If the percentage isn’t specified, you’ll want to make sure that vitamin C is one of the first three or four ingredients listed in order for it to be worth the cost, she adds. (More on the price factor in a moment.) <\/p>

Derm product recommendation: the heavy hitter<\/h3>

Obagi Professional C-Serum<\/a> ($127)<\/strong><\/p>

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If you want a hefty dose of vitamin C and vitamin C alone, this pro-grade serum can’t be beat. The only active ingredient is L-ascorbic acid, at an impressive 20% concentration—the highest available. (Heads up: this is superpotent, so steer clear if your skin is dry or sensitive.) However,  there is a lower, 15% concentration<\/a> available. <\/p>

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Derm product recommendation: the do-it-all youth-booster<\/strong><\/strong><\/h3>

BeautyStat Universal C Skin Refiner<\/a> ($80)<\/strong><\/p>

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When it comes to vitamin C skin care, the exact formulation matters—a lot. This serum is the hero product of a brand created by a cosmetic chemist, so you know the ingredient combos are going to be legit. More specifically, there’s 20% L-ascorbic acid, coupled with tartaric acid; the latter optimizes the pH level for maximum absorption. Also in the mix is an antioxidant-rich green tea extract and hydrating squalane, making this formula great for firming, brightening, and tightening skin.<\/p>

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