We may still be firmly entrenched in PSL season, but make no mistake—winter is coming, as are the accompanying skin changes and complexion concerns. Among them, dryness is the biggest issue. Cold, dry air outside plus dry indoor heat disrupt the protective skin barrier, allowing natural moisture to escape, explains Dr. Mona Gohara, associate clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale School of Medicine. Further exacerbating the situation, most people also tend to moisturize less often in the winter because they’re always covered up, she points out. The end result? Dry, flaky skin all over. You may also notice that your complexion looks oddly sullen come winter. “People tend to exfoliate less when their skin is dry, leading to a greater buildup of dead cells and a dull, grayish tone,” Dr. Gohara says.
In order to deal with these problems, seasonal skin-care swaps are a must. But the real secret to success lies in staying one step ahead of the game and making these changes long before the weather turns. As the saying goes, the best offense is a good defense. “You want to do things now so that your cells are properly hydrated, your oil production is stable, and your skin is radiant. This way, when winter arrives, you only have to maintain these results,” explains Dr. Stacy Chimento, a board-certified dermatologist at Riverchase Dermatology in Miami Beach, Florida. Not to mention that it takes at least four to six weeks for most changes you make to your skin-care routine to translate into visible results, adds Dr. Gohara.
So which ingredients should you start using now, in preparation for what’s to come? We asked the dermatologists to weigh in on seven of their favorites and share their go-to product picks. Bring it on, winter.
Hyaluronic acid (HA)
Both derms we spoke to agree that this is an absolute moisturizing must. “It acts like a sponge, soaking up moisture in the air and delivering it into the skin,” explains Dr. Chimento. Opt for an HA-based serum and layer it under your daily moisturizer, for an extra hit of hydration. Top tip: Because the ingredient absorbs moisture from the air, it’s ideal to use HA in a humid climate (think: a steamy bathroom when you’re fresh out of the shower).
L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Derm Intensives Hyaluronic Acid Facial Serum ($30)
Dr. Gohara recommends this drugstore buy, which combines two different types of the namesake ingredient. A 1% concentration of a smaller hyaluronic acid molecule penetrates deeper into the skin, for hydration purposes, while a 0.5% concentration of a larger HA molecule sits on top of the skin, for an instantaneous plumping effect. It’s lightweight and not in the least bit tacky, and it works beautifully under makeup.
SkinCeuticals Hyaluronic Acid Intensifier ($100)
“This serum contains high concentrations of pure hyaluronic acid, to restore skin’s moisture levels and deliver surface hydration,” explains Dr. Chimento. Plus it also touts licorice root and purple rice, ingredients that work to support your skin’s natural levels of hyaluronic acid. For best results (AKA for improved firmness, smoothness, and plumpness), she suggests applying it to freshly cleansed skin every evening.
SkinMedica HA5 Rejuvenating Hydrator ($178)
Five different weights of hyaluronic acid penetrate skin at different levels, to deliver both surface and deeper hydration. On some skin types, the plumping effect can be dramatic enough to temporarily reduce the appearance of fine lines. “After hearing so many dermatologists and plastic surgeons rave about this product, I had to try it myself,” says RealSelf head of content Carolyn Hsu. “It lives up to the hype. A lot of moisturizers I’ve tried are forgettable because the results are not very impressive—usually, [they] just feel like a layer of product over my face. But HA5 sinks in immediately and feels invisible but leaves my skin noticeably more supple and quenched from the inside out, even hours later. It’s such a comfortable feeling.”
Related: How Dermatologists Recommend Treating Dry, Winter Skin
Retinoids
Sure, you could make weekly or biweekly exfoliation a part of your routine, but Dr. Gohara recommends using a retinoid nightly instead. Not only does it increase cell turnover to ensure your complexion stays radiant, but you’re also getting the collagen-boosting benefits to help smooth out fine lines and wrinkles in one fell swoop.
Differin Adapalene Gel ($17)
There’s no shortage of retinoids to choose from (and if you really want a heavy-hitting option, you can always ask your derm for a prescription-strength version), but Dr. Gohara says this affordable, over-the-counter option is a winner. As the name suggests, it relies on adapalene, a retinoid once available only by prescription, at a 0.1% concentration that’s both effective and gentle. Use a pea-size amount, applied evenly across your entire face, nightly.
Lactic acid
Maybe your skin doesn’t do well with retinoids, or perhaps you’ve been using one for years and still want a little exfoliating boost. Consider lactic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid and a choice chemical exfoliant that also enhances your skin’s natural moisturizing factors, says Dr. Chimento. It also has the distinction of being one of the gentlest AHAs out there—a major win, given that the last thing you want to be dealing with during the winter is extra dryness or irritation.
Perfect Image Lactic Acid Peel 10% ($25)
According to Dr. Chimento, this peel is gentle enough that you can even use it daily (just be sure to moisturize afterward). The exfoliating formula both leaves skin radiant and ensures that any other serums or creams you’re using are better able to penetrate. Dr. Chimento likes this formula in particular because it also contains kojic acid, a top brightening ingredient that can help fade dark spots and even out skin tone.
Niacinamide
Multitasking, for the win: along with addressing a litany of issues, such as wrinkles, dullness, and hyperpigmentation, niacinamide also works to restore skin’s moisture and hydration, points out Dr. Chimento. She calls it “the perfect moisturizing ingredient” for the fall and winter and advises looking for it in a moisturizer that you can use twice daily.
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Moisturizer ($20)
This formula holds moisture in the skin for up to 48 hours, thanks to a combination of prebiotic thermal water and niacinamide, says Dr. Chimento of her pick. Ideal for all skin types, she lauds it for being soothing and rich in antioxidants. Not to mention that it also contains the next ingredient on our list.
Ceramides
Remember how we talked about the cold weather and indoor heat wreaking havoc on the skin’s moisture barrier? Well, consider ceramides an antidote to all that. A type of lipid, they’re imperative for restoring and maintaining a strong and healthy skin barrier, excellent for warding off not only dryness but also the irritation and itchiness many people experience during the winter, says Dr. Chimento.
CeraVe Daily Moisturizing Lotion ($10)
If we had a dollar for every time a dermatologist recommended this product, we’d be long retired. Dr. Chimento is only one of the many (many) skin docs who love this lotion. “It contains three different ceramides, to restore the protective skin barrier [and] hyaluronic acid, to retain moisture, and is incredibly gentle, suitable for everyone to use daily,” she says. We’d be remiss not to mention the wallet-friendly price as well as the fact that it works equally well on face, body, and hands.
GoopGenes All-in-One Nourishing Face Cream ($95)
Ceramides are the hero hydrating ingredient in this nourishing moisture balm, accompanied by a variety of botanicals, fruits and butters in order to power up its moisturizing abilities. The plant-based formula is free of a long list of controversial ingredients and fragrances, making it a suitable pick for consumers who are conscious about what’s in their products. The thicker texture feels comforting on skin in colder weather.
Related: The Drugstore Skin-Care Products a Dermatologist with Dry Skin Actually Uses
Antioxidants
While antioxidants may more often be thought of as a better choice to pair with sunscreen during the summer, now’s a great time to make them a staple in your skin-care routine. “I double up on my antioxidant serum come fall, to help undo any summer damage and prep skin for winter,” says Dr. Gohara. The protective ingredients act like scavengers, negating the effects of skin-sabotaging free radicals that come from UV rays and pollution.
Obagi Professional-C Serum 20% ($127)
This is Dr. Gohara’s pick, a potent serum filled with, you guessed it, a 20% concentration of L-ascorbic acid, the most effective form of vitamin C. While there are plenty of antioxidants to choose from, vitamin C reigns supreme for offering additional benefits as well: along with powerful antioxidant protection, it’s also an effective brightening ingredient and boosts collagen production.
Urea
This is another great humectant, a moisturizing ingredient that works by attracting water to the skin, says Dr. Chimento. She especially likes it for the cooler months because it’s also keratolytic: “It softens the outer layer of the skin and can remove dry, flaky patches,” she explains.
Eucerin Urea Repair Face Cream ($15)
The urea in this formula makes this everyday cream especially good for those with dry to very dry skin, helping to reduce that stripped, tight feeling, says Dr. Chimento. It’s also a safe bet for all skin types, given that it’s fragrance-free (a win for the sensitive set) and noncomedogenic (a major plus for those with oily skin).
