A moisturizing retinol sounds like quite the oxymoron, given that so many on the market leave our skin dry, flaky, and red—at least, during the initial adjustment period. But VI Derm Beauty Retinol Age-Defying Treatment Moisturizer ($104) is just that and more: it has a gentle form of vitamin C, to brighten and protect against environmental damage; an acid blend, to help with cell turnover; and anti-inflammatory green tea, to soothe. It’s so nonirritating, in fact, that it can be used morning (with sunscreen, of course) and night.
But how well does it really work? Contributing senior editor Jolene Edgar, director of consumer content Mari Malcolm, and beauty copywriter Erika Fitzgerald all put it to the test for a few weeks, then shared their honest opinions over Slack.
Jolene: So this has retinol + azelaic acid + 10% glycolic acid. After only two weeks of testing, it’s still early to judge real results, but I definitely think the addition of glycolic gives an immediate glow. For the record, I’m 44 and use some form of retinol nightly.
Mari: We’re in a very similar boat: I’m 45 and use a (fairly low-strength) retinol nightly. Even though this isn’t a potent retinol, I definitely noticed a difference from the glycolic acid, in a good way.
Erika: I turned 32 this year, and decided it was time to up my skin-care game, so I started using a 1% retinol a few months ago. But boy, does it make my skin sensitive to sun exposure! I feel like this is the perfect balance for summer—it actually made my combination skin feel a little oily at first.
Mari: Especially early on, my skin felt much more tingly, with even a slight burning feeling—but then I realized it was probably because I was being overenthusiastic and using more than the recommended one to two pumps, so I pulled that back.
Jolene: I feel some stinging upon application—typical with glycolics—and just recently started seeing some mild flaking around my chin. Again, that’s after about two weeks of nightly use and pairing it with moisturizer.
Mari: What kind of moisturizer did you pair it with? Something light?
Jolene: Yep, a very light, benign peptide moisturizer from Atolla.
Erika: I’ve been using one pump for about three weeks and definitely feel the tingling. It feels like it’s working though.
Mari: Agree that it’s not too much tingle—just enough to feel like it’s working.
Erika: I layered it before my CeraVe Daily Moisturizer the first week but cut out the moisturizer after noticing my skin felt a little too moisturized. Now I’m using it just at night, with my toner and eye cream. That’s it.
Jolene: I do love the added antioxidants—green tea and THD ascorbate [a nonirritating form of vitamin C]. They likely help offset irritation too. I think the THD is also supposed to bolster the retinol.
Mari: Riiiiight, they say that’s why it can use a lower concentration and still deliver results. I’m having some flaking, especially around the temples, so I’ve been using an exfoliating cleanser.
Erika: I didn’t experience any dryness or flaking with this retinol, which is amazing.
Jolene: A fragrance-free formula also makes me very happy.
Erika: +1. I hate feeling like I just rubbed my face in a flower field.
Jolene: I’m hoping, with continued use, the azelaic does a little something for my melasma. Though honestly, this time of year, I feel like it’s a losing battle.
Mari: Same. I also made my excess pigmentation worse by spending seven hours on a boat last weekend and using sunscreen with an SPF of just 30. I wore a hat and reapplied a few hours in, but that wasn’t enough.
Jolene: It’s so hard in the summer. I feel like my skin darkens the second I step outside—even with SPF 50+ and a hat. Thoughts on the VI price tag?
Erika: It’s definitely on the pricier side. Is it worth it? I think it’s still a little too early to tell.
Jolene: I feel like it’s on par with similar products, like Skinbetter Alpharet, yes? I agree though, time will tell.
Mari: I’ve been dealing with breakouts too—residual maskne exacerbated by sunscreen. I was hoping the azelaic would clear that up a bit more quickly, but it is helping.
Erika: My 1% retinol cream is $74—and needs to be layered with a moisturizer. So I think the $104 price tag for this is fair, since it doubles as a moisturizer for me. I do see a slight visible difference after three weeks. My skin looks a little more even, and feels oh-so soft.
Mari: I’m curious to see how long the bottle lasts (assuming I use the recommended one to two pumps the whole time). That’s such a key factor in whether the price is worth it. My skin also feels softer!
Jolene: I definitely like it enough to stick with it. No complaints about the formula…which is unusual, ha.
Erika: Same! I feel like it might be more sustainable long-term than other retinol products because I actually enjoy using it; I just can’t tell if it will be as effective yet.
Mari: I’m definitely a fan so far too. To the point that I’m being more diligent about using it twice a day (something I’m not always good at sticking to).
Jolene: Interesting. I wouldn’t have thought to use it twice daily, but looking at the bottle now, that is what they recommend.
Erika: I was wondering if I could layer my vitamin C serum with this, since it also has vitamin C in it. I know you’re not usually supposed to layer those two.
Jolene: I bet you could, but you probably don’t need to, since it contains the THD ascorbate—unless you really want that double whammy. I’ve also been told by derms that vitamin C serums can be applied every other day, to save $, since they’re long-acting.
Jolene: I’m a fan so far, and I’m hoping to see further improvement over the next few weeks.
Erika: Overall, I give it an 8/10 at this point. A little pricey but seems like a good addition to my evening routine. I’d be interested in trying the full four-step pigment correction system. I spent too many days in the sun without sunscreen when I was younger!
Mari: I’m an 8/10 so far too. And intrigued by the VI Peel!
