There is no shortage of companies out there claiming that their [insert supplement, topical, or skin-care device here] will help boost collagen production. It’s been proven that collagen levels have a direct correlation with the appearance of skin, so it’s easy to believe that getting more of it, through whatever means possible, will be some sort of magic potion for perfect skin. It actually is pretty incredible, but it’s not some newly developed cure-all. Rather, collagen is one of the most basic building blocks of our bodies, found in the connective tissues, blood vessels, ligaments, and bones.
What is collagen?
“Collagen is a protein, and proteins make up everything major in the body,” says Dr. Ranella Hirsch, a board-certified dermatologist in Boston. “Collagen gives your skin its structure and framework, it’s involved in helping your blood clot—it’s really involved in everything, in one way or another.” Not only is collagen the most widespread protein we have in our whole body, but it also makes up 75–80% of skin, which means that it plays a leading role in keeping all the “scaffolding” in place in the dermal layer. Collagen helps with elasticity, plumpness, an overall youthful appearance, and joint health. According to Dr. Hirsch, collagen is produced in the body through a series of reactions—the result of digestive enzymes breaking down dietary proteins into amino acids—and plays an important role in connective tissue repair and the healing process.
What causes collagen loss?
“[Collagen loss] looks exactly like what you think aging looks like: sagging, jowling, droopiness, and loss of balance and vitality to your skin,” explains Dr. Hirsch. But why does collagen deplete over time? There are a number of reasons.
“We are born with an abundance of collagen in our skin, but natural collagen production in our body begins to slow in our 20s and 30s. By then, collagen levels in our skin decrease by 1–2% per year,” says Dr. Kimberly Butterwick, a board-certified dermatologist in San Diego. “When this occurs, our skin’s structural integrity starts to diminish and manifests as fine lines and wrinkles and then progresses to sagging. Collagen thins out, and that weakens the inner structure of the skin.” The breakdown of collagen occurs at a faster rate than more of it can be produced, keeping us perpetually on the chase. (Menopause, especially, is a rough time for collagen synthesis—studies show that women’s skin loses 30% of collagen in the first five years of menopause, then drops back down to a 2% loss in the years after.)
Environmental factors and lifestyle choices can deplete collagen too. The biggest culprit in this category is sun damage from too much sun exposure—which, Dr. Hirsch notes, “will break down collagen fast.” The same goes for smoking, pollution, and even diet (consuming excess sugar, for example, can impair healing). Basically, she adds, “anything we use antioxidants to protect from” can affect collagen levels.
Best cosmetic treatments to boost collagen
There are a number of treatments proven to boost collagen in the skin, and nearly all of them revolve around creating a controlled wound, to stimulate the healing process. “Anytime you have an injury under the skin, it’s collagen that’s doing the work of healing,” explains Dr. Hirsch. In-office procedures are designed to create microdamage in order to induce new collagen to lay down, thereby plumping and smoothing skin. Your doctor will help you to choose the right treatment for your needs; however, there are some that tend to reign supreme. It’s important to remember that, like all good things, building new collagen takes time. “I tell my patients that it often takes two to three months before full clinical benefits can be appreciated, when it comes to collagen building. In older patients, results can take up to six months,” says Dr. Butterwick.
Lasers
Laser resurfacing is very effective for skin health, and Dr. Lorrie Klein, a board-certified dermatologist in Laguna Niguel, California, points to the Fraxel Dual laser as her go-to for more than 15 years. “[It] stimulates collagen production more than anything else I’ve ever seen,” she says, attributing its effectiveness to how well it can heat the collagen layer in the dermis without disrupting the epidermis. “Patients love that there’s minimal downtime.” After a round of three treatments, the impressive results can include improved texture, smoother and plumper skin, and a reduction in (and further prevention of) fine lines.
Microneedling
Microneedling is another option Dr. Klein recommends in order to boost collagen. “It’s not quite as effective as Fraxel, but it is very effective for a lot of people,” she says. “And microneedling with PRP is even better.” The skin rejuvenation technique she’s referring to is often called a Vampire Facial, in which platelet-rich plasma (PRP) from your own blood is applied topically and then microneedled back in. The growth factors in the PRP amplify your collagen production.
Radiofrequency and ultrasound energy
Heat, when used without breaking the surface of the skin, can also boost collagen production in the dermis. Radiofrequency and ultrasound energy treatments, such as Thermage and Ultherapy, use this heating process to target the dermis and remodel collagen. “The heat actually causes the collagen molecules to shrink, if the temperature is just right—between 57ºC and 65ºC,” says Dr. Butterwick. “This process tightens the collagen bundles immediately and stimulates new collagen production.”
Injectable fillers
While injectable fillers visibly add volume immediately, they are believed to have the added benefit of inducing collagen production long-term. According to Dr. Klein, hyaluronic acid fillers, such as Juvéderm and Restylane, stretch the dermis in order to make it more taut instead of sagging, and “that tension may be what stimulates collagen.” Moreover, poly-L-lactic acid filler Sculptra and calcium hydroxylapatite–containing Radiesse are formulated to boost collagen. “Those are called biostimulatory fillers, and they stimulate collagen—that’s where they have their effect,” she continues. “It’s not just by plumping the skin. It’s by making the skin plump itself. But [the effect is] temporary. You know, they go away just like other fillers.”
Best skin-care products for collagen
For true collagen stimulation, the best results will come from working with a board-certified dermatologist, to find the right professional-level treatment for you. This doesn’t mean that there’s no way to take collagen building into your own hands, with topical skin-care products, but Dr. Hirsch advises to set your expectations low and be mindful of any claims that sound too good to be true, as they often are.
In particular, she cautions that topically applied collagen is, for the most part, ineffective because there’s minimal absorption. “Collagen is a big molecule, and the skin barrier is really particular about what it lets in,” she explains. “So collagen is not something that, realistically, will penetrate the skin.” For that reason, adds Dr. Klein, “collagen creams are only going to be fancy moisturizers.”
Instead, you’ll get the most collagen-boosting benefits from evidence-based skin-care products in the following categories.
Sunscreen
There is a direct correlation between UV exposure and collagen degradation, so wearing sunscreen every single day (and reapplying, as instructed) is an absolute must.
Obagi Sun Shield Matte Broad Spectrum SPF 50 ($53)
While the best sunscreen for you is the product you will actually wear, if you’re looking for a one-two punch for aging skin, this broad-spectrum SPF 50 option by Obagi leaves an elegant matte finish and is formulated with vitamin C, to add another layer of defense from free radical damage.
Growth factors
Products formulated with epidermal growth factors (EGF) act like messengers in the skin, stimulating cells (namely, fibroblasts) that, in turn, promote the formation of collagen and elastin.
SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum ($266)
Ask any dermatologist which anti-aging skin-care products actually work, and chances are they will mention SkinMedica’s cult-favorite TNS line. However, the latest iteration featured here happens to be Dr. Klein’s favorite. “The growth factors stimulate collagen production better than any other product I’ve used,” she says. By combining more than 400 purified growth factors with a blend of peptides, botanicals, and marine extracts, noticeable results are delivered fast—per the brand, in as little as two weeks—and can include “more radiance, a little more plumpness, [a reduction in] fine lines,” Dr. Klein shares. “After a few months, there are also textural improvements.”
Peptides
These short chains of amino acids are basically the “building blocks” of collagen, but because they are much smaller in molecule size, Dr. Hirsh says, they have a better chance of penetrating the skin when applied topically.
Alastin Regenerating Skin Nectar ($195)
Here’s a peptide-based product that comes highly recommended by both Dr. Hirsch and Dr. Klein. Featuring the brand’s proprietary TriHex Technology, it works to “improve elasticity and texture of the skin while rebuilding the skin’s extracellular matrix,” Dr. Hirsch explains, adding that she also likes how smoothly it wears under makeup. This version was designed specifically for pre- and post-procedure skin, but Dr. Hirsh confirms that it can be used daily.
HydroPeptide Power Serum ($144)
With the inclusion of hyaluronic acid, you know this will be a super-hydrating serum, but the real power comes from the six neuropeptides that, on a much subtler scale, can mimic the effects of Botox—by inhibiting the muscle contractions that can form expression lines—and also come backed by studies showing some can boost collagen production in the skin.
Retinoids/Retinols
The family of vitamin A derivatives are anti-aging superheroes that have been proven to increase collagen production, but if your skin doesn’t tolerate the potency of prescription-strength options (like Retin-A), you can still get benefits from a gentler OTC retinol alternative.
Senté Bio Complete Serum ($98)
An especially ideal retinol option for anyone with sensitive skin, this serum boasts two different time-release (read: less irritating) retinoids, in the form of pure retinol and retinyl safflowerate. Plus you’ll get additional collagen-regenerating benefits from the inclusion of vitamin C; peptides; and Sente’s proprietary ingredient, heparan sulfate analog, which fights inflammation and dehydration.
Vitamin C
Much like sunscreen, vitamin C is often considered a nonnegotiable in a healthy skin-care routine, because it gives you an invisible armor against free radicals (from environmental aggressors, among other things)—but studies have found it can also promote collagen production.
BeautyStat Universal C Skin Refiner ($80)
With a 20% concentration of L-ascorbic acid as well as green tea extract and squalane, this serum effectively addresses dark spots and dullness while protecting against free radicals and supporting the skin barrier.
Can at-home devices boost collagen?
“My opinion of at-home devices is, if they’re safe enough to use at home, they’re not going to be very effective, or definitely not as effective as something that’s being medically supervised in an office,” says Dr. Klein. Dr. Hirsch agrees, adding that there are some devices that can offer moderate results in terms of rebuilding collagen but require a long-term commitment and compliance. “You have to be willing to do the work. It’s not something you do for three weeks and get results.”
Still, LED light therapy masks have been particularly trending as of late, and there are some low-level laser (or light) therapy (LLLT) devices featuring red and infrared light that are safe for home use and, according to one study, can play a role in collagen production and light skin rejuvenation.
CurrentBody Skin LED Light Therapy Mask ($355)
This FDA-approved LED mask needs to be worn only 10 minutes a day (for a least three days a week) for best results—according to one brand-directed study, it’s been proven to reduce wrinkles by 35% in just four weeks. It combines red (633 nm) and near-infrared light (830 nm), which are the optimal wavelengths to ensure proper absorption of the light in order to produce strong collagen and elastin synthesis. Bonus: it’s made of flexible silicone that wraps comfortably around the face and rolls up easily for travel.
The best collagen supplements for skin
Collagen powder is one of the most popular offerings in the beauty/wellness space today, but before you add it to your cart, consider your goals. Collagen dietary supplements do have some potential health benefits; however, when it comes to the skin, the jury is still out. In other words, you can’t simply eat and drink collagen to get the appearance of more youthful skin. While there are a handful of short-term studies that have shown improved skin elasticity and hydration from oral collagen supplementation, Dr. Hirsch cautions that there’s still a lack of long-term data to prove it does anything for skin rejuvenation.
Mend Cosmetic Clinical Nutrition Supplement Powder ($79)
This ingestible powder doesn’t present itself as a collagen supplement but instead has a very unique target demographic: those who recently underwent a cosmetic treatment (either surgical or noninvasive). It comes in vanilla or chocolate flavor and contains such active ingredients as vitamins C, vitamin E, zinc, bromelain, and the amino acid arginine—all of which can help with the management of circulation, bruising, swelling, and general inflammation.
