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Finding your exact, perfect skin-care routine is often celebrated as a commitment to self-care that finally led to you getting it “right.” But that’s often much easier for those who fall into traditional gender norms. While strides have been made recently, thanks to such gender-inclusive and LGBTQIA+-forward brands as Non Gender Specific and Noto Botanics, if you are a person who doesn’t fit into the cisgendered world, skin-care companies, for the most part, aren’t exactly speaking to you.
We asked trans, nonbinary, and gender nonconforming tastemakers how they navigated the aisles while dealing with acne or conditions that arise from taking hormones, which products work for them, and what they wish companies were doing differently to speak to the community.
Nova Donnell, artist and trans rights activist
“I was always into skin care going up. When you go from male to female, your body goes through a lot of changes—both physically and chemically. In my case, the influx of estrogen caused some hormonal acne, which was devastating; being African American, my skin is more prone to keloids and scarring. At that point, I knew I had to find a new routine that worked for me.
“I wish I could find more brands that cater to the trans community in general and are aware of how challenging it is for us to find the right skin care to balance skin that’s in transition. I would love to see them actually do specific, targeted research to help find better skin-care solutions for women like me.”
Nova’s skin-care routine
“I wash with Wonderfully Natural Organic African Black Soap [$15] and tone with Thayers Facial Toner [$11]—it has the most refreshing cucumber scent. I moisturize with Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Moisturizer [$22], then, for SPF, I use Black Girl Sunscreen 30 SPF [$19], which is infused with both jojoba and avocado oil.
“At night, I use Neutrogena makeup remover wipes [$6.50], wash with the same Wonderfully Natural soap, tone with La Mer Treatment Lotion [$110], and moisturize with Hers prescription acne cream. I also exfoliate my face at least three times a week with Dermalogica Microfoliant [$59], a dry exfoliating powder that you can add to any cleanser.”
Max Slack, head of global partnerships for HER App
“I started getting interested in skin care when I was about 17—I ended up going for a consultation at Lush, to help with acne. They were incredibly helpful and knowledgeable. I still use several of the products. That experience got me into learning more about natural skin care. When I am using [traditional] products, I try to use items [that] are [isolated actives] so I know exactly what I’m using.
“I recognize that, biologically, there are gendered differences in skin-care needs, but these can be addressed through product concerns as opposed to aiming products at men and women separately. There are some brands that don’t explicitly gender their products, which is great, but it often seems to be more of a marketing tactic than an explicit move toward gender neutrality.”
Max’s skin-care routine
“I wash my face with Lush Fresh Farmacy soap [$13] and pat dry with a clean towel. Then I use The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% [$6] on problem areas and moisturize with either Lush Vanishing Cream [$45] or Enzymion [$41]. I also use The Ordinary caffeine eye cream [$7] or Glossier Bubblewrap [$26] under my eyes.
“My night routine is similar. Once a week, I’ll exfoliate with Lush Ocean Salt Face Scrub [$22]. And I also keep a stash of COSRX skin patches [$6], for breakouts.”
Marina LaBarthe del Solar, illustrator and cofounder of Enby Spoken Histories
“My relationship with skin care is kind of complicated. I really want a skin-care routine, but I have a hard time finding motivation to do it, because a lot of things don’t work. I’ve been on testosterone for three years—I thought I was going through puberty just at the beginning, but it seems like I’m still going through puberty. My beard is a whole other thing—I get bad ingrown hairs, and shaving gives me pimples. I’m really trying to figure out what the right product is for me. I would like to see more of a conversation around how hormones change skin. I think people will feel more confident and empowered. Inclusivity is really important.”
Marina’s skin-care routine
“I wash my face with Dr. Bronner’s Tea Tree Pure-Castile Liquid Soap [$18.50] in the shower, because the tea tree oil helps with pimples. Then I’ll use witch hazel as a toner and a little bit of CeraVe Daily Moisturizing Lotion [$12], but that’s on the good nights, when I decide to do something to my face at all.”
Related: How Hormone Replacement Therapy Affects Your Skin As You Transition
Laila Ireland, TransMilitary advocate
“In the beginning of my transition, I felt like I needed to fit into this box, because a lot of ads from makeup and skin-care brands show a certain type of person and I never really saw myself reflected. Like, when we can talk about trans men? Certain products can dry out their skin, and they’re already on hormones. For trans women, if we use too much argan oil, it may make us break out.
“As a trans woman who does a lot of media engagements, skin care is very important, but it was hard in the beginning [to find a routine that worked]. I couldn’t talk to a doctor about [my skin issues], because I was afraid to even say anything about my transition while I was in the military. That prevented me from seeking assistance, so looking back, it was a lot of trial and error. I want to see more people of color and more people who are notably transgender represented in skin care.”
Laila’s skin-care routine
“In the morning, I steam my face for about 15 minutes, and then I wash with Neutrogena Deep Clean Purifying cleanser [$9.50] or use Pixi In-Shower Steam Facial [$22.50]. After that, I’ll use Pixi Collagen Tonic [$15] followed by an Aveeno or Neutrogena moisturizer.
“At night, I use makeup wipes to take off makeup if I’m wearing any [before applying] the Pixi tonic and Pixi Overnight Glow Serum [$24]. Then I put on Pixi BeautifEYE eye patches [$24] for 10 to 15 minutes before I moisturize.”
Kile Atwater, actor, comedian, correspondent for Buzzfeed’s “Did You See This?”
“I was intimidated by using skin care when I was growing up in Texas, because my environment was hypermasculine and very homophobic and skin care was associated with being gay at the time. Then I realized I’d rather be gay than ashy.
“At first, it was a journey that consisted of trial and error. I used to go to Sephora and ask for free skin-care samples to try and figure it out—plus I was broke at the time, and free samples were all I could afford. Now I know what ingredients work for me and how to fit skin care into my budget.
“I do find it really hard to find sunscreen for Black skin—a lot of them leave this ashy, white cast on my face. There needs to be more diversity behind [product creation], with people that understand [everyone’s] needs.”
Kile’s skin-care routine
“I’m currently using Be Transcendent Recharge Facial Cleanser [$16]. It’s a Black-owned skin-care line with the best natural ingredients. After that, I use Thayers Facial Toner [$11] and a jade roller to really wake up my skin, then I’ll apply Valjean Labs Morning + Night Oil [$15] because it has squalene and gives me a dewy glow.
“For bedtime, I love The Ordinary because they have the same ingredients as the luxury brands, for dollar-store prices. I’ll usually go in with the Glycolic Acid Toning Solution [$7] on a cotton pad, to get rid of any dirt that has built up on my face throughout the day. Then I’ll use the Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% [$6], to tighten my pores. And Aesop Damascan Rose Facial Treatment is life-changing—however, a $75 face oil is currently not in my pandemic budget.”
Cat Runner, photographer
“I haven’t always been interested in skin care. So many brands use the ‘one-size fits all’ marketing, and it’s super-overwhelming. I knew about Accutane, and that was the extent of my acne care knowledge, so when it got really bad [during my transition], that’s how I dealt with it. It definitely helped [then], and now I’m in a better position to [contain] my acne.
“[The industry needs to] speak to men. The male audience isn’t targeted to begin with, because skin care has been associated with femininity, and if you’re interested in more in-depth and relaxing treatments, the stores you have to go to cater toward a female demographic. I personally don’t have a problem with it, but fragile masculinity… if you know what I mean.”
Cat’s skin-care routine
“In the morning, I usually just rinse my face with water, to get rid of any of my prescription Tretinoin residue, and then apply Cetaphil Moisturizing Lotion [$10.50]. My night routine depends on how dry my skin feels or if it’s getting irritated. Sometimes I just splash my face with water, which makes it feel clean, but most nights I try to wash it with Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser [$6] and then apply my prescribed acne cream. I use Cetaphil products because that’s what my mom suggested.”
Seana Momsen, trans influencer
“I’ve never had quote-unquote ‘bad skin’—whatever that means—or experienced acne. I count myself lucky, especially as a transgender woman, since men stereotypically have ‘rougher skin.’
“I have normal to combination skin. I go through phases of having an intense routine, then just always go back to a simple face wash. I just make sure I feel refreshed and rejuvenated—that’s the goal. I am all for skin care and can up the ante. However, I don’t find myself wanting to or having the time to.”
Seana’s skin-care routine
“My biggest asset is a really good natural moisturiser. That’s one thing I cannot live without, and I urge everyone to moisturize, moisturize, moisturize! I use XBC Cocoa Butter Cream [available in the UK] and LaCura face wash, which is vegan and cruelty-free. When I put more effort into my skin, I like to use beneficial acids, like The Ordinary AHA 30% + 2% Peeling Solution [$7.20].“Recently, I have been getting laser hair removal, to combat my dysphoria with my facial hair and the five-o’clock shadow. I’m not currently on any hormones or testosterone blockers, so I have to get laser treatments. It does take a toll, but my skin bounces back within a couple of days. Aloe vera is a godsend. It purifies and soothes my skin.”
