Applied to skin care, the first two parts of Carrie Bradshaw’s oft-quoted line hold up well: your 20s are for making the mistakes; your 30s are for learning the lessons. But instead of paying for the drinks, we’d say your 40s are for perfecting the process. You’ve been around the block (not too many times!), you know yourself, and you won’t settle for what doesn’t work—especially if you’re a dermatologist.
We asked six derms over 40 to let us in on their holy grail, first-they’d-save-from-a-bathroom-fire skin-care product. From a vitamin C serum to a drugstore staple to top-notch wrinkle creams, these are their picks, which do everything from exfoliate to hydrate to diminish the appearance of fine lines.
1) “My holy grail product is Tazorac. I’ve been using it for about eight years. It’s basically a turbo-charged retinoid that is stronger than Retin-A. It encourages exfoliation and cell turnover, getting rid of dead skin cells, so you get a bit of a glow and a brightening effect, and it strengthens the skin too. Those exfoliating properties means it gets rid of superficial sun damage, such as unwanted pigmentation or discoloration. It’s best for those who don’t mind [trading] some peeling from time to time for the upside of its rejuvenating properties, but I don’t recommend it for those with super-dry skin or rosacea.” —Dr. Laurie Jacobson, a board-certified dermatologist in Seattle
2) “I have three daily skin-care products I can’t live without. The trifecta, to me, is the holy grail for healthy, glowing skin—prescription Retin-A, Skinceuticals Phloretin CF with Ferulic Acid, and Alastin Skincare Hydratint Pro Mineral Sunscreen. After you get through the initial month of dryness and some peeling, Retin-A gives the skin an incredible glow and improves tone and texture by building collagen and elastin to minimize the look of deep wrinkles, evening skin tone, and minimizing pores. Phloretin is my favorite antioxidant serum to help protect from and repair free-radical damage. I especially love it for oily, combination, and acne-prone skin, since the formula won’t cause breakouts. It helps reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, evens and brightens skin tone, and protects from further sun damage. Sunscreen complements both of the above by quite literally preventing further damage from daily UV rays, thereby reducing sunspots and wrinkles. My new favorite, by Alastin, is a moisturizing, tinted, broad-spectrum sunscreen that helps to protect against UV as well as blue light from our phones and computers [which can cause dark spots and collagen breakdown].” —Dr. Shari Marchbein, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City
Related: 7 Things You Need to Know Before Starting Retin-A
3) “If I had to pick one product, it’d be Vaseline Petroleum Jelly. I grew up with Vaseline around the house and it’s been a go-to product in my skincare routine ever since. It’s an occlusive, so it helps to seal in other products, moisturize, and protect the skin barrier. It soothes and heals when used on dry cuticles, irritated or cracked skin, chapped lips, and even wounds. Put it on any area that rubs before working out/hiking/bicycling, to avoid blistering and calluses. It works as a makeup remover, even on eyes. It protects easily irritated skin—like the eyelids, chin, or underarms—when applied before tretinoin or prescription-strength antiperspirant. When in doubt, Vaseline is the answer!” —Dr. Heidi A. Waldorf, a board-certified dermatologist in Nanuet, New York
4) “My favorite product is Skinbetter Science AlphaRet Overnight Cream. This night cream has retinol, alpha hydroxy acids including glycolic acid and lactic acid, antioxidants, fatty acids, niacinamide, ceramides, hydrating hyaluronic acid, and a peptide blend. I’m over 40, so I need the antioxidants to reverse environmental damage, the retinoid to stimulate collagen production and lasting production, the acids to help retexturize my skin, and the squalane and niacinamide to moisturize. It’s definitely less irritating than traditional retinol because it’s a moisturizer and has anti-inflammatory properties like green tea. I mean, it’s got everything in it—I’ve been using it for years.” —Dr. Cheryl Thellman Karcher, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City
5) “I was on the waiting list for Emepelle Serum even before it launched in March 2019 at the annual meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology, and I have been using it daily ever since. Emepelle is revolutionary—it’s the first clinically proven skin-care product that targets the estrogen receptors in our skin. Estrogen plays a huge role in maintaining skin’s hydration and collagen—we lose 30% of our collagen during the first five years of menopause. We’ve all been using SPF and retinol for years, and now we are truly ‘anti-aging’ by addressing aging due to the decline in our hormone levels. I’m not in menopause but am certainly in perimenopause, and I’ve been on hormone replacement therapy for four years. I have pretty good skin already, but I notice more of a glow and improved hydration, elasticity, and suppleness since using Emepelle. I’m sure that it’s enhancing the results of my laser treatments for skin tightening too.” —Dr. Jessie Cheung, a dermatologic surgeon in Willowbrook, Illinois, and New York City
6) “I was introduced to DefenAge in 2016, and it has been my go-to skin-care product ever since. I use the DefenAge Clinical Power Trio, which includes the 2-Minute Reveal Masque, 24/7 Barrier Balance Cream, and the 8-in-1 BioSerum. I have rosacea and sensitive skin and live in the dry climate of Colorado, so many skin-care products have caused dryness, irritation, and redness. DefenAge is well-tolerated and good for many skin types, including sensitive skin. Over the past three years, I have noticed an improvement in skin texture, hydration, and brightness and have seen diminished pore size and redness. I also really like the fact that there are many clinical studies that support DefenAge’s anti-aging effects.” —Dr. Kristin M. Baird, a dermatologic surgeon in Longmont, Colorado
