How do I choose the right chemical peel for me?

The right chemical peel depends on what your goals are for your skin. Chemical peels differ in the depth of penetration.

For instance, if the goal of the peel is simply to exfoliate the skin, a superficial chemical peel can be used. For pigment irregularities (age spots, melasma), medium depth chemical peels are beneficial. On the other hand, if the goal is to combat wrinkles, a problem in the deep layers of the skin, a deep chemical peel must be used.

In general, non-medical providers, such as aestheticians, can only apply superficial chemical peels. Superficial peels are outlined in other answers in this section. Superficial peels are generally very safe, and some are even available over the counter. Permanent scarring and skin burns are rare to non-existent.

Medium depth peels, such as 15-35% TCA (trichloroacetic acid) are excellent at taking care of sun damaged skin. It is important to have these administered by an experienced physician who is able to discern a true sun spot from something more ominous, such as a skin cancer. TCA peels do require a short recovery time and should be done by experienced physicians, as side effects can occur.

For deeper skin layers, deeper chemical peels, such as a phenol peel, are necessary. This chemical peel will cause what amounts to a severe sun burn and should only be administered by trained physicians who are experienced with facial peels and can deal with any possible outcomes. It can significantly improve facial lines and wrinkles and produces very nice results when done properly.

First, you have to choose from between:

1. A non-medical peel, or
2. A higher quality, medical-grade peel

Non-medical skin peels – the ultra-light peels, such as a glycolic acid peel – are usually composed of alpha-hydroxy acids and sometimes derived from sugar cane and fruits. Typically, they do not provide a very dramatic result. Estheticians are permitted to use these over-the-counter preparations.

Often, in order to get results with non-medical peels, the patient has to undergo several peels over a 6 to 12 week period of time and this can add up in cost. Also, these non-medical peels do not penetrate the skin very evenly; so, for a more effective peel, most dermatologists strongly favor the deeper cosmetic peels, such as salicylic acid (SA) and trichloroacetic acid (TCA).

Thus, my best advice is to save your money and get one of these deeper, medical-grade peels. You’ll see better results.

Chemical peels are an extremely effective way in which to not only achieve healthy skin but also maintain it. To choose the most appropriate peeling agent, several factors should be considered, including degree of damage, allowable downtime, and budget. Taking all of these factors into consideration, we can design a program for you that will meet your goals and leave you with healthy, youthful looking skin for years to come.

• For clients with minimal sun damage and/or fine lines and wrinkles, a light glycolic, mandelic, or AHA peel would be appropriate.
• If a patient presents with more pronounced facial aging and wants the quickest results, we will lean more towards a TCA peel.
• Although phenol peels are an excellent way in which to address facial aging, they have historically been associated with an overall lightening of the skin and so their popularity has waned in the last ten years.