Microdermabrasion - what's the best method?

There are several methods of microdermabrasion available on the market. These include:

• Crystal-based
• Crystal-free
• Vibrating paddle systems

Each method has its pros and cons, but all of them help to exfoliate or remove the top layer of the epidermis by a physical method.

Microdermabrasion is a great, affordable way to reduce the appearance of fine lines, superficial brown spots, acne, and minimize pore size with little down time. I like to follow my treatments with a facial, as it helps the cosmeceuticals penetrate deeper. You should select the method based on your provider's expertise and results they achieve (check out their before and after photos).

Crystal-based systems are the ones we are most familiar with, as they have been around the longest. These machines use a vacuum to move the crystals from the machine to the handpiece to make contact with your skin. The crystals hit the skin, removing the top layer, and are removed quickly by the vacuum in the machine, along with this dead skin layer. This is like water in a steam cleaner that shoots down to the carpet and gets sucked up by the machine along with the dirt. The faster the pass over the skin, the more superficial the abrasion.

The crystals used in these machines include corundum, which is aluminum oxide, a colorless saffire. This is inert, and since the crystals do not penetrate deeply, they do not really have a danger of becoming embedded in the skin. Other crystals, such as sodium bicarbonate, must be specially formed to have the angles to abrade the skin. Sometimes the sodium bicarbonate is helpful in changing the pH or acidity of the skin for acne treatments. If your physician has a good machine, there should be an aspiration mode that helps to remove any residual crystals, so you don't feel grainy after the treatment. These machines, if made correctly, do all of the work, and do not rely as much on the skill of the operator. So, someone with a "heavy hand" would not necessarily give a deeper treatment unless they set the machine at a higher setting.

Crystal-free handsets operate similarly to the crystal-based machines, except the skin is pulled up into the handset where there is a small plate covered with abrasive material that removes the top layer of skin. This is a bit like using sandpaper to abrade the skin. Some machines have this plate closer to the surface, so that someone with a heavier hand could do a deeper abrasion than someone else. Sometimes even the same person is inconsistent with her/his pressure. Many people prefer this method because they don't want the grainy feeling after treatment, but it is more operator-dependent.

The crystal-based and crystal-free handsets that are powered by a vacuum pressure are also beneficial in bringing fibroblasts (cells that create collagen) to the surface to help fill in the wrinkles from underneath. This effect is evident 2 weeks after the treatment, so you walk out with glowing skin and still look good afterwards.

The vibrating paddle machines (Vibraderm, Multiderm) use a similar surface, but in a larger paddle that vibrates and removes the skin cells that way. This does leave dead skin particles (and viral particles) around to possibly be inhaled. The advantage of this system is that large areas (calluses, arms) can be treated in less. The paddles are not disposable and are usually reused after being sterilized.

There is also a system that utilizes the crystal-free handset but also "infuses" the skin with vitamins, antioxidants, and other "therapeutic ingredients." Keep in mind that the skin functions as a barrier, and treating the skin with a microdermabrasion does not necessarily make it more porous. I have not seen many studies that prove that these ingredients actually penetrate to do much good after the treatment is complete.

I prefer the crystal-based system because it does great exfoliation, creates collagen under the wrinkles, and is an affordable way with little down-time to get glowing skin. The results are best with multiple treatments done in a row before a big event. Then, maintenance treatments afterwards help the skin to turnover faster and lets those baby cells come to the surface faster.

There is a mild redness that lasts a couple of hours after the procedure. Because of the vacuum pressure, it is not recommended for people with rosacea. These treatments can be done as often as every 10 days. It's a great way to get a feel for aesthetic treatments. Ask your doctor about it today.