Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid are naturally occuring organic acids also known as Alpha Hydroxy Acids or AHAs. The salts of Glycolic Acid (Ammonium Glycolate, Sodium Glycolate), the salts of Lactic Acid (Ammonium Lactate, Calcium Lactate, Potassiu Lactate, Sodium Lactate, TEA-Lactate) and the esters of Lactic Acid (Methyl Lactate, Ethyl Lactate, Butyl Lactate, Lauryl Lactate, Myristyl Lactate, Cetyl Lactate) may also be used in cosmetics and personal care products.
In cosmetics and personal care products, these ingredients are used in the formulation of moisturizers, cleansing products, and other skin care products, as well as in makeup, shampoos, hair dyes and colors and other hair care products.
The safety of Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid, their salts and esters, has been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that Glycolic Acid, Ammonium Glycolate, Sodium Glycolate, and Lactic Acid, Ammonium Lactate, Calcium Lactate, Potassium Lactate, Sodium Lactate, TEA-Lactate, Methyl Lactate, Ethyl Lactate, Butyl Lactate, Lauryl Lactate, Myristyl Lactate and Cetyl Lactate were safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations of 10% or less, at final formulation pH of
AHAs were absorbed by the skin; the lower the pH, the greater the absorption. Metabolism and distribution studies showed expected pathways and distribution. Consistent with these data, acute oral studies showed oxalate-induced renal calculi, an increase in renal oxalate, and nephrotoxic effects. No systemic effects were seen with dermal application, but irritation at the site of application was produced. While many studies were performed to evaluate AHA-induced skin irritation, it was common for either the AHA concentration or the pH of the formulation to be omitted, limiting the usefulness of the data. Clinical testing using AHA formulations of known concentration and pH was done to address the issue of skin irritation as a function of concentration and pH. Skin irritation increased with AHA concentration at a given pH. Skin irritation increased when the pH of a given AHA concentration was lowered. Repeat insult patch tests using lotions and creams containing up to 10% Glycolic Acid or Lactic Acid were negative. Glycolic Acid at concentrations up to 10% was not comedogenic and Lactic Acid at the same concentrations did not cause immediate urticarial reactions. Glycolic Acid was found to be nonirritating to minimally irritating in ocular tests, while Lactic Acid was found to be nonirritating to moderately irritating. In vitro testing to predict ocular irritation suggested Glycolic Acid would be a minimal to moderate-severe ocular irritant, and that Lactic Acid would be a minimal to moderate ocular irritant. Developmental and maternal toxicity were reported at the highest dose level. No developmental toxicity was reported at levels that were not maternally toxic. AHAs were almost uniformly negative in genotoxicity tests and were not carcinogenic.
Because AHAs are exfoliating ingredients, the CIR Expert Panel assessed the potential that AHAs could increase the effects of UV radiation. Based on the results of extensive clinical testing, the CIREP concluded that any increase in the sensitivity to light was modest and could easily be controlled through formulation techniques or through product labeling directing the use of sunscreens.
More information about AHAs.
Link to FDA Code of Federal Regulations for Lactic Acid, Ethyl Lactate, and hydroxyacetic acid (Glycolic Acid)
http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRS...
http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRS...
http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRS...
http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRS...
http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRS...
http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRS...
Most of the AHA ingredients may be used without restriction in cosmetics and personal care products marketed in the European Union. TEA, listed in Annex III of the European Cosmetics Directive, is permitted at a maximum concentration of 2.5% in cosmetic products. TEA used in cosmetics and personal care products in Europe must comply with the following limitations: Purity minimum 99%, less than 0.5% secondary amines (concerns raw materials), less than 50 ppb nitrosamines, no nitrites.
Link to the EU Cosmetics Directive:
http://ec.europa.eu/enterprise/cosmetics/html/consolidated_d...
Health Canada permits Alpha-Hydroxy Acids, including but not limited to Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, and Ammonium Glycolate, in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations equal to or less than 10%, with a pH equal to or greater than
Link to the Health Canada website:
http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/cps-spc/person/cosmet/hotlist-liste_e...
The Joint FAO/WHO Expert Committee on Food Additives has not limited the Acceptable Daily Intake of Lactic Acid. No safety concern at current levels of intake were noted when Lactic Acid is used as a flavoring agent.
http://www.inchem.org/documents/jecfa/jeceval/jec_1252.htm
