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Beauty Cred - What is worth it ("WiWi") in skin care and beauty products

Beauty Cred

What is worth it ("WiWi") in skin care and beauty products


Would you trust UVA protection from a plant?

Jun 24, 2008
Sisley Paris Sisley Paris Sunleya Age Minimizing Sun Care SPF 15
physalis-alkekengi-2.jpg

UVA runs deep baby. So I'm one to be wearing sunscreen ad nauseum--sign me up for that SPF85 from Neutrogena--and I'm not kidding. I have on some major sunscreen ingredients each and every day whether I'm getting incidental exposure or walking on Reduit Beach in St. Lucia. So with that in mind, read on...

We know natural ingredients and plant extracts are relatively common in most skin care products today, but we don't often hear of them being touted as effective sunscreens. The most we hear seems to be what we hear about in mineral cosmetics. However, Tatler UK recently placed their beauty spotlight on a sunscreen that is said to be harnessing a plant's power to filter out harmful UVA rays.

Tatler UK
featured Sisley Paris Sunleya Age Minimizing Sun Care SPF 15 in its June '08 issue, where the sunscreen is touted as a "product ahead of its time." The sunscreen's protecting power is attributed to alkekengi calyx, a plant extract which they claim to be a UVA rays filter. The plant, Physalis alkekengi, is more commonly known as winter cherry, Chinese lantern, and Japanese lantern.

To satisfy my curiosity on this ingredient, I did a bit of research on the Physalis alkekengi. According to ibiblio.org, the plant creates a papery orange covering or husk (called the calyx) around the fruit to protect it from harsh elements and insects. This probably sparked the idea that the calyx can filter the harmful UVA rays from the sun. While I found several medicinal uses for the winter cherry, I didn't run into any substantial cosmetic uses or effects on the skin to back up their UVA protection.

The Physalis alkekengiI is a real beauty--and I can see how anyone looking at it would marvel at its beauty and think it must hold some secrets to skin protection or rejuvenation. Buuuttt....am I ready to make it my main defence against UVA? I'm not so sure there. How about you--would you entrust your skin to UVA protection offered by the winter cherry?

If you've tried Sisley Paris Sunleya Age Minimizing Sun Care SPF 15, tell us--WiWi: Was it Worth it?

posted by skintoxicated / joy celine

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I would prefer to stick with botanicals which have adequate and solid research behind them. Silymarin, Ellagic acid and quercetin, for example provide proven UV protection and UV damage repair properties. These are also easy to formulate with in DIY skin care products.

Even with them I would still make a good chemical sun protection product my main weapon against sun damage. European UVA filters have finally been approved for sale in the USA, so that makes LRP Anthelios my current product of choice. As an alternative I would consider a physical UV blocker consisting of NON-micronized Zinc and Titanium, although an unpleasant product to wear on a daily basis or when going to work, it is a skin saver at the beach.

Finally, the Sisley Paris product claims a (less then adequate) SPF 15 rating, but the focus of the product is on its supposed UVA protection, but what is the UVA protection rating (PPD)?

DIYer
blog.diyskincare.info

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