New for Melasma treatment: Octadecenedioic Acid
Since melasma is one of the most common skin problems facing adult women, skin care companies are constantly introducing new skin lighteners deemed safe and more effective than the others.
A recent product launched in the anti-melasma category is Eucerin White Solution Spot Treatment. The Eucerin lightener contains a relatively new skin care ingredient for targeting hyperpigmentation: Octadecenedioic acid.
- Octadecenedioic acid is said to interfere with pigment production.
- According to Eucerin, it appears to be effective at skin lightening.
- A small study of 19 women showed melasma severity decreased by 40% in eight weeks.
Although the Eucerin melasma treatment is not yet available in the US (tell us when it's available!), Nivea has alternate option. Nivea Body Natural Tone Face and Body Creme for an Even Skin Tone SPF 4 also contains Octadecenedioic acid to help even out skin tone and discoloration.
The SPF 4 is not enough sunscreen protection to ward off future discoloration, let alone sun damage in general. So you'll need to beef up the protection with a much higher level SPF (at least SPF 30). Tip: See doctor answers to What's the best sunscreen
Please leave a comment if you've found any other melasma lightener that appears to work without damaging your skin.
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29 posts
2 Sep 2008
It's wonderful to get excited, but first look at the data. 19 women were the study population -- that's far too small. 40% showed melasma severity decreased, but by how much and why? It's important to understand the origin of a skincare ingredient, how extensively it has been studied, and if it claiming a medical result what sort of scientific data on outcomes, risk and interactions exists? Interfering with pigment production is a physiological action in the skin and if the ingredient does this, it needs to be classified as an active ingredient and tested rigorously by FDA standards. If you are looking for a solid acne treatment, look for the Palomar 1440 laser, the most promising technology -- whether skincare, device or drug--shown to literally eradicate melasma. The key here -- once melasma is gone you need to keep it away with keen sun protection, melanease inhibitors and staying away from pigmentation aggressors like stress, sun and breakouts.
1 post
12 Jan 2009
Dear Marie, As the investigator of this product currently no longer employed by that company and hence (hopefully) comnpletely independent, I would like to comment that we have found out that this chemical has a unique way of working (look for my articles that were publiushed in perr-reviewed scientific journals) and that it was rigorously tested in placebo controlled double blind studies as well as against marketed leading benchmark products. Whether or not 19 is enough I cannot say, this was not my study, but this is determined by the difference that you want to see (bigger differences require smaller panels than small differences), the spread in the data of your measurements (which you can control / optimise by your measuring method) and for the rest by what scientists have decided to agree as statistically significantly different. 19 could be more than enough, it could be too little. In my studies, I've used 20 people per group and that is typically enough. I can make it stronger, if you need 500 people to show a difference, the difference is probably so flippingly small that the average consumer won't see it. So, seeing an effect on a small group of people is more a sign of strength than a sign of weakness. Enjoy reading my articles! Your comments on acne may be justified, but have nothing to do with this cream. Johann.
1 post
17 Feb 2009
I think Octadecenedioic Acid is suitable for the treatment of hyper pigmentation probelms like melasma. where as for depigmentation problems its use is not better. condition that causes light spots are due to the depigmentation and those which causes dark spots are due to the pigmentation of skin.