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Beauty Cred - What is worth it ("WiWi") in skin care and beauty products

Beauty Cred

What is worth it ("WiWi") in skin care and beauty products


New for Melasma treatment: Octadecenedioic Acid

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Aug 25, 2008
Nivea Nivea Body Natural Tone Face and Body Creme for an Even Skin Tone SPF 4
PaleSkinMelasma.jpg

With melasma being one of the most common skin problems for women--and certainly a top concern of RealSelf.com readers, no doubt it's on the radar screen at most beauty companies. In their August 2008 issue, Allure magazine features Eucerin White Solution Spot Treatment, a new product that contains a relatively new skin care ingredient: Octadecenedioic acid.

Octadecenedioic acid is said to interfere with pigment production and proves to be effective at skin lightening; a study of 19 women showed melasma severity decreased by 40% in eight weeks.

Although the Eucerin melasma treatment is not yet available in the US, Nivea has alternate option. Nivea Body Natural Tone Face and Body Creme for an Even Skin Tone SPF 4 contains Octadecenedioic acid to help even out skin tone and discoloration--but the SPF 4 is not enough sunscreen protection to ward off future discoloration, let alone sun damage in general. So you'll need to beef up the protection with a much higher level SPF (at least SPF 30).

posted by skintoxicated / joyceline

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mkuechel
9/3/08

It's wonderful to get excited, but first look at the data. 19 women were the study population -- that's far too small. 40% showed melasma severity decreased, but by how much and why?

It's important to understand the origin of a skincare ingredient, how extensively it has been studied, and if it claiming a medical result what sort of scientific data on outcomes, risk and interactions exists? Interfering with pigment production is a physiological action in the skin and if the ingredient does this, it needs to be classified as an active ingredient and tested rigorously by FDA standards.

If you are looking for a solid acne treatment, look for the Palomar 1440 laser, the most promising technology -- whether skincare, device or drug--shown to literally eradicate melasma. The key here -- once melasma is gone you need to keep it away with keen sun protection, melanease inhibitors and staying away from pigmentation aggressors like stress, sun and breakouts.

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