Microdermabrasion treatment gently removes the top layer of skinâthe stratum corneum, overlying the epidermisâand then vacuums away dead and damaged cells. The result is a brighter, more even skin tone with a smoother texture.
This no-downtime skin rejuvenation procedure can:
Dr. Janet Allenby, a board-certified dermatologist in Delray Beach, Florida, is a fan of this cosmetic procedureâboth as a provider and a patient. âMicrodermabrasion has been used for well over 20 years in my practices, and it still amazes me how nice the skin tone becomes after even a single treatment,â she says. âWith a lot of experience under our belts, we can augment the treatment with a light chemical peel at the same time.â Her best advice about microdermabrasion: âKnow who is treating you.â
Dr. Amy Paul, a dermatologic surgeon in Grand Junction, Colorado, also recommends it to her patients. âMicrodermabrasion is a great treatment for cleaning out the pores and giving skin a bit of a glow for a few days.â
So what canât it do?
Pros
Cons
Your cost will depend on the experience level of your provider, their practice location, and the size of the treated area. Some offices offer discounts or special deals, if you buy a series of treatments up front.
The microdermabrasion photos in our gallery have been shared by the provider who performed the procedure, with the patient's consent.
Most people are good candidates for a microdermabrasion facial.
However, it can aggregate sensitive skin, so again, it isnât a good choice for patients who have:
If youâve recently had a facial laser treatment or completed an isotretinoin regimen (or are still on it), itâs wise to hold off on microdermabrasion for a few months.
Finally, skip microdermabrasion if youâre pregnant; it can be too irritating and lead to breakouts.
To ensure your skin is prepped for the treatment:
Before your aesthetician or provider begins the microdermabrasion session, theyâll cleanse and steam your face, to soften skin and open up the pores. Then, working counterclockwise, theyâll begin the exfoliating process with their handheld device of choice.
There are two methods: crystal microdermabrasion and diamond microdermabrasion. Both range from 20 minutes (for the quickest facial) to an hour (if the treatment includes your face, neck, and chest).Â
Some doctors believe that the diamond tip reduces the redness and dryness that can occur after the treatment. âI prefer the microdermabrasion diamond hand pieces over the crystals for two reasons,â Dr. Allenby says. âI think the skin can get too dried out from the crystals (which were the original treatments). Less importantly for the outcome, the crystals seemed to end everywhere, and patients felt too âgritty,â even outside of the treatment zones.â
Afterward, any excess crystals or residue will be removed with a warm towel, and your provider will apply a moisturizer and sunscreen.
Microdermabrasion should not hurt or require anesthesia of any kind, if itâs performed appropriately. This is a gentler and less invasive procedure than traditional dermabrasion, which exfoliates at a deeper level.
With this more mild form of abrasion, youâll likely feel only a slightly gritty sanding sensation, which some compare to being licked by a catâs tongue. Your skin may feel a little itchy or tingly, but youâll quickly acclimate to the sensation.Â
Microdermabrasion providers can easily adjust their pressure and speed settings to suit your skin and pain tolerance, so speak up if it feels uncomfortable.
Thereâs no real recovery time needed after microdermabrasion. However, itâs normal for skin to be dry and tight following the procedure, and some people say their skin was flushed pink. These side effects should subside over the next day, with the use of a gentle cleanser and moisturizer.Â
To get the maximum effect of the treatment, avoid anything that overheats your bodyâincluding showers, a sauna, steam rooms, and exerciseâfor the first 24 hours.Â
You can somewhat resume your regular skin-care routine after 48 hours, but you should avoid topical anti-aging, exfoliating, or anti-acne products that contain salicylic acid, AHA/BHA acids, retinols, vitamin C, or benzoyl peroxide, for seven days due to prevent possible irritation. Â
In the next few weeks, your new skin may be more sensitive to sun exposure, so itâs important to use a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher and practice smart sun protection (think: hats, sun shields, shade).
A 2016 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that microdermabrasion is safe, with benefits that include increased collagen density.
âMicrodermabrasion is a safe procedure at any age. But, like most procedures, the experience of the person doing the microdermabrasion is the key to getting a good result with few adverse reactions,â explains Dr. Mitchell Schwartz, a dermatologic surgeon in South Burlington, Vermont.
A few caveats:
The biggest risks would stem from an unsanitary environment or inexperience. Your aesthetician or provider should always wear gloves and use sterilized tools. Read consumer reviews and check before and after photos prior to booking an appointmentâand steer clear of anyone who has injured or over-exfoliated their clients.
Aestheticians usually recommend monthly sessions, since your skin cells naturally turn over every 28 days or so.
That said, the ideal time table for this treatment will vary based on your age (cell turnover slows over time), skin sensitivity, goals, and skin care regimen. You also have to factor in any other procedures you may routinely have done at the dermâs office, especially if theyâre resurfacing in nature.
Some people get weekly microdermabrasion sessions, as part of a series, in the initial phase of treatment, and then return for occasional maintenance treatments a few times a year. Others view microdermabrasion as a great seasonal fix, since it buffs away dry, flaky skin on the heels of winter as well as sun-damaged cells after a summer spent outdoors.
The results of most at-home microdermabrasion devices wonât match those youâd get from a professional, but they can still improve your skin over time. âWe like to tell patients that home devices are good and work even better in combination with a good skin-care routine from a board-certified dermatologist or plastic surgeonâs office,â says Dr. Michael Gold, a dermatologic surgeon in Nashville.
âWe often recommend that the microdermabrasion procedure start in the office, and then it can be finished and maintained in your home. Most dermatologists know of several good home devices, and we do make them available as adjuncts to what we do in our office.â
Though rare, there are risks that come with using a device at home, also typically due to sanitization. One study reported that a woman developed a bacterial abscess from her home device. Following the cleaning instructions is essential to avoid side effects of microdermabrasion at home.
HydraFacial has been gaining a reputation as a more effective exfoliation treatment, with gentler ingredients. The procedure includes a type of microdermabrasion, and it also opens pores, vacuums extractions, and infuses skin with a customized blend of serums. Dr. Allenby says that she regularly gets HydraFacials herself. âPart of the treatment incorporates microdermabrasion using either a regular tip or a more aggressive wet diamond tip. I like having this done because I can add or subtract growth factors, peels, and hydration.â
For more dramatic results, consider a chemical peel.Â
If you have pronounced acne scars or wrinkles, Dr. Paul recommends microneedling or laser resurfacing. âMicroneedling and laser resurfacing are much better uses of your money for improving acne scarring and stimulating collagen,â says Dr. Paul. âIf you have dark skin, be very cautious with laser treatments, to avoid post-treatment inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Microneedling is often a safer avenue.â
Updated December 29, 2023